20 August 8 - 14, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents through the ranks of her field, starting off as a bartender and now designing and overseeing cocktail menus nationwide for Maple Hospi- tality, the group behind high-rise luxury spots Monarch and Kessaku in Dallas. She firmly believes that the look of the drink can be just as important as the taste. “I think people will often go very far out there with ingredients, but people want something beautiful,” Demas tells the Ob- server. “My entire career has been to create a very balanced drink that’s both Instagram- mable and able to execute in three minutes or less. [...] It’s the fajita effect. You see some- thing go out and you’re like, ‘Wait, what is that?’ Everybody wants it. It’s an easy sell.” The fajita effect Demas refers to is more pertinent than ever in the age of social media. It’s the job of mixologists like Demas to create drinks that appeal to all senses, not just the taste buds. “A lot of people don’t realize how much goes into stuff like that, you know?” Demas says. “I feel very passionate about it because it’s been my passion for the last 10 years. I remember watching bartenders and being, ‘Wow.’ I mean, it’s really a craft.” Sanwar mal Khokar is the in-house mixolo- gist at Sanjh, an upscale Indian restaurant in Irving. He trained as a mixologist in India for three years and managed a premium cocktail bar for Celebrity Cruises before starting his current position. Sanjh’s cocktails are more than just beau- tiful and delectable — they make a distinct cultural statement. “We have 12 cocktails on the menu,” Kho- kar says. “If you combine all of these cock- tails, it will create a beautiful map of India.” Drinks like the Monsoon in Meghalaya, Madras Bail and Bay of Bengal all use ingre- dients that are commonly used in specific regions of India. But Sanwar tells us that one of his favorite drinks to make is an espresso martini with a twist and he was happy to give a demonstration. “Instead of using vodka, we are using scotch whisky,” he explains. “The harshness of the whisky is going to combine very well with the coffee.” Watching Khokar prepare the drink is like watching an artist at work. He’s wearing gloves and an apron and using tools like cus- tom ice cubes and tweezers to properly place the garnishes. The result was almost sculptural, with the garnishes balanced deli- cately on top of the martini glass. And, of course, it tasted incredible as well. “Using the right tools and techniques is the most important,” he says. “While making the cocktail and designing the menu and playing with the theme or the different flavor profiles, we never know what the next person is going to like. It’s all about experimenting with different and unique ingredients.” Khokar says that the key to balancing substance and style when crafting these cocktails has surprisingly little to do with the drink itself. “The glassware and garnish seem simple, but it is quite appealing,” he says. “All of these factors are playing a very important role. [...] Using the right glassware, the right garnish, the fine ingredients. These are the factors.” Demas, who still enjoys hopping behind the bar every once in a while, was also eager to make us a drink while we chatted with her at Kessaku. Her fruity concoction, Call Me in the Morning, was an experience be- fore it even touched our lips. The leafy grapefruit garnish seemed to almost sprout from the ice cubes, and the herb and sesame rim looked like a chande- lier cascading down the front of the glass. You smell the rim before you taste the drink itself, which consists of Casamigos Blanco, Casamigos Joven and pamplemousse; the smoky scent and fruity flavors mingle nicely. It’s truly a drink for all senses, just as she promised. As for the inspiration for her creations, Demas says she can find it anywhere. Some- times she starts with the look of it and works her way back. Other times, she’ll feel in- spired to spruce up an existing drink. “I’ll see something that sparks inspira- tion,” she says. “How do you take a classic drink that works and people love but they don’t always know what it is? You take those and you create a drink that’s more palatable.” While these demonstrations were im- pressive and the final products delicious, we couldn’t help but wonder how these compli- cated drinks and their meticulous garnishes are constructed during busy dinner rushes. “You have to have everything in your head and you line them up,” Demas says. “You want to make sure that you’re building things that don’t require any sort of foam that will go flat. You want to usually build a stirred cock- tail first, and then you work your way for- ward. And then you often get people ordering off the signature cocktail menu because those are the fun things that make us unique. We usually get around 10 of those a time, so I al- ways try to make as many as possible so that you’re not working against yourself.” Khokar’s trick is to have as many of the cocktails already assembled as possible. “We are keeping the ingredients nearby and within the reach of our two hands,” he says. “And we are keeping almost 80% of the drink ready in the bottle. We just need to pour it and add a few more ingredients and garnishes.” At the end of the day, these full-time cocktail enthusiasts aim to create something they would enjoy. “Our chef is a Michelin chef, and he al- ways taught me that when you make drinks, you should make them how you would want to drink them,” Demas says, “And that stuck with me. I like making drinks the way that I want to as well as making them good for our customers and the food that we offer. I’ve al- ways stayed very true to that, and I think that your craft should be a reflection of you.” City of Ate from p19 Carly May Gravley The espresso martini at Sanjh. D DIGITAL MARKETING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE INTERESTED CANDIDATES PLEASE SEND YOUR COVER LETTER AND RESUME TO [email protected]
