16 August 3-9, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents down meal? Head to the walk-up counters where you can order sandwiches, pizzas, desserts and espressos to go. Il Bracco 8416 Preston Center Plaza (Park Cities) Nestled among fancy shops like Kendra Scott and Bachendorf’s in Preston Center is Il Bracco, the perfect place to lunch with the la- dies and enjoy a glass of Champagne or rosé while indulging in homemade pasta and other Italian fare. The crispy baby artichokes with olive aioli and fresh-squeezed lemon is a perfect start to a meal and is the most popular appetizer at Il Bracco. The pasta is home- made, including five different styles and five sauces. The cacio e pepe is saucy and spectac- ular, and the pasta al limone is especially re- freshing on a hot summer day. La Stella Cucina Verace 2330 Flora St. (Arts District) In the heart of the Dallas Arts District, La Stella Cucina Verace shines as one of Dallas’ top-rated fine-dining Italian destinations. Old-world traditional regional Italian cook- ing blends with renowned hospitality to de- liver an unparalleled experience. Among the standout dishes, the osso buco ($68) reigns supreme, with slow-braised, cross-cut veal shank that melts in your mouth, accompa- nied by risotto alla Milanese adorned with gremolata. Lucia 287 N. Bishop Ave. (Bishop Arts District) Situated in the bustling Bishop Arts District, Lucia reigns as a highly acclaimed Italian haven, indisputaby ranking among the city’s finest. Chef David Uygur and his wife, Jen- nifer, founded Lucia in 2010, infusing it with a passion for traditional Italian cooking and a dedication to sourcing the finest local and seasonal ingredients. Such dedication to cu- linary excellence has garnered Lucia nu- merous accolades and widespread acclaim, including a James Beard nomination this year. The menu changes frequently but in- cludes an array of house-made pasta dishes, and meticulously crafted antipasti and secondi dishes. Given Lucia’s intimate set- ting and popularity, reservations are a must. Monarch 1401 Elm St. (Downtown Dallas) Perched on the 49th floor of The National residences in downtown Dallas, Monarch has great views of the city skyline, setting the stage for a unique dining experience. This wood-fired, modern Italian restaurant is ideal for special occasions, business din- ners or perhaps just happy hour. The fire- roasted lasagna Diane is highly recommended; it’s served in a skillet with sheets of lasagna noodles wrapped vertically and stuffed with small meatballs, ricotta cheese, savory tomato sauce and a crispy cheese crust. The enormous veal chop Par- mesan comes with tomato crudo, fresh moz- zarella and basil, and is served sliced on the plate with the veal bone intact. Nonna 4115 Lomo Alto Drive (Park Cities) Nonna, another Italian restaurant from Chef Julian Barsotti, has been a beloved neigh- borhood dining destination since 2016. Bar- sotti’s passion for regional Italian cuisine and his commitment to high-quality ingre- dients are evident in Nonna’s menu. A wood-burning oven is a focal point for the restaurant, both aesthetically and for the food. Artisanal salumi, pasta and pizzas dominate the menu. The white clam pie with fresh clams, garlic, olive oil and oreg- ano is a treat. Given its widespread popular- ity, securing reservations, especially during peak dining hours, is highly recommended. Partenope Ristorante 1903 Main St. (Downtown Dallas) Partenope Ristorante earned a well-deserved spot as No. 17 in the prestigious 50 Top Pizza world rankings in 2022 thanks to its out- standing Neapolitan-style pizza and authen- tic Italian dishes. From meticulously crafted antipasti dishes, like the polpette al sugo (beef and pork meatballs, marinara and house bread) to the Super Jeff sandwich (soppressata, prosciutto, provolone, mixed greens, cherry tomatoes, Calabrian chili may, giardiniera and balsamic) and pasta dishes, you can taste the love in each bite. Partenope Ristorante is a charming spot, blending com- fort and style. There are plans for a second lo- cation in Richardson later this year. Pizzana 3219 Knox Street (Knox-Henderson) Hailing from Hollywood, Pizzana pizzeria is the collaborative creation of Italian Master Pizzaiolo Daniele Uditi and Candace Nel- son, the visionary behind Sprinkles Cup- cakes. Pizzana is known for its authentic “Neo-Neapolitan-style” pizzas, which fer- ments dough for 48 hours to impart true Ne- apolitan pizza qualities with a firm, not floppy, base. The menu offers antipasti, pizza, salads and desserts. For antipasti, you can’t go wrong with the Caprese di bufala, with large chunks of fresh mozzarella, heir- loom tomatoes, basil, oregano, garlic and ol- ive oil. For pizzas, go for the cacio e pepe pizza, a signature pie that offers a unique twist on the original pasta dish. Be sure to save room for dessert because the panna cotta with salted caramel and caramelized pretzels is simple but so decadent and should not be missed. Quartino Ristorante 5754 Grandscape Blvd., The Colony Quartino Ristorante is a new addition to The Granscape in The Colony, courtesy of Chi- cago. The menu is inspired by the traditional “osterias” of Italy, where guests can enjoy a variety of small plates, known as “cicchetti,” as well as classic Italian dishes. Hank Vaughn recently got a full taste of the menu that includes a wide range of antipasti, sal- ads, risotto, pasta dishes and wood-fired piz- zas, all made with fresh and high-quality ingredients. A standout feature of Quartino is its curated wine list, boasting an extensive selection of fine Italian wines. Guests have the option to order wine by the quartino, a quarter-liter carafe, allowing them to try multiple wines during a meal. The emphasis on sharing plates encourages a communal dining experience and creates an atmo- sphere that beckons friends and family to come together. It all makes this place a truly enticing dining destination. ▼ FOOD NEWS DRESS CODE OR SCAPEGOAT? DRESS CODE POLICIES CONTINUE TO DRAW ALLEGATIONS OF RACISM AT DALLAS RESTAURANTS. BY DESIREE GUTIERREZ D espite the sweltering heat, rethink wearing shorts, especially if you plan to dine and drink in Dallas. Last month, two Uptown Dallas estab- lishments were accused of discriminatorily enforcing dress codes. The latest incident took place on June 26. Raytron Mayfield, a Black middle school health teacher, and his girlfriend were re- fused service at Parliament, a “neighbor- hood cocktail bar that offers a cozy and welcoming vibe.” A viral Instagram video shows owner Ed- die Campbell barring the duo from entering the bar. The audibly upset teacher was re- fused service because his blue Nike Air Jor- dan shoes and print shorts didn’t meet the dress code. The video shows a woman wear- ing Nike sneakers and other patrons wear- ing shorts inside the bar. “You can’t do that to people and get away with it,” Mayfield says. “In the day of social media, you got to pull out your phone.” A week earlier, on Father’s Day, Black co- median Josh Drake and Black fitness trainer Dominique Nicole were forced out of McK- inney Avenue’s Baboush Mediterranean Mezza and Bar. Management deemed the trainer’s shorts out of dress code. The Mediterranean restaurant’s dress code is “comfortable, but polished,” requir- ing smart-, business- and elegant-casual at- tire. No shoes, no service. A sign is posted on the glass door, in white lettering, about knee height, a couple of feet off the ground. “These dress codes are extremely vague on purpose,” Drake says. “They’re left up to the interpretation of the person that holds the authority. … It’s strategically written that way to be biased, and it was written in a way to allow them the final authority.” A YouTube video documents the incident at Baboush. Eaters, some of whom are wearing shorts, watch as the manager, who has since been fired, throws Drake’s bag out the front door and locks them out of the restaurant. It’s not just Uptown that emphasizes dress codes. Whiskeys, an intimate Black-owned whiskey bar in Exposition Park, has a simple website. Its one page lists the hours and dress code. They want you to know when to come and what to wear, or not to wear. Ath- letic gear and flip-flops are not allowed. Baseball hats must be worn “traditionally.” The bar is touted as a “champion for ra- cial equity” and a “safe space for Black ex- cellence” on Instagram. Black Millennials of Dallas, a community organization, recog- nized Whiskeys and Parliament as two of their top three recommended bars in Dallas in 2022. Whiskeys did not respond to our re- quest for an interview. Baboush issued an apology on Juneteenth. Campbell denies race played a part in his action. “Parliament has always been an upscale neighborhood cocktail den, and I have always been so proud of Parliament, which has always been blessed with such beautiful and diverse guests,” he said in an email to the Observer. The adoption of a dress code was aimed at maintaining the cocktail den’s upscale en- vironment. “Parliament had become too casual,” he says. “Parliament absolutely allows casual attire, but I’m drawing the line at pajamas and swimsuits. I’ve made this decision for the safety of our guests and the quality of their experience.” Parliament’s dress code leaves room for interpretation. Tank tops on men, bathing suits, pajamas, visible underwear, see- through clothing and bandanas are barred. Certain clothing like sleeveless shirts on men, outdoor work clothes and skin-tight bodysuits may be prohibited at the manag- er’s discretion. “I’m just not sure how many great drink- ing experiences happen in tank tops, paja- mas, bathing suits and extremely casual attire,” the owner says. “We are seeking to cultivate the decorum present in the bar from its opening days. We also aim to pro- vide a safe environment.” From left to right: Barsotti’s Sunday gravy; Margherita pizza at Partenope; Bolognese from Carbone’s Fine Food and Wine Chris Wolfgang Alison McLean Chris Wolfgang City of Ate from p15
