12 July 31 - August 6, 2025 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents while embracing innovation over the last 40 years, like how they use techniques passed down from generations to serve you sushi on a large wooden boat. The restau- rant has that perfect, lived-in feel, and the dinner menu font is reminiscent of Micro- soft PowerPoint’s peak. Much of the menu is flown in from Japan, including the fun order that is (sawagani) live crab served with sea salt and lemon. ▼ BARS A FINE OLD VINTAGE BOURBON & BANTER, BENEATH THE STATLER HOTEL IN DOWNTOWN DALLAS, IS ONE OF AMERICA’S MOST HISTORIC BARS. BY AAREN PRODY H istory may repeat itself, but the Na- tional Trust for Historic Preserva- tion works to preserve the years as they were rather than repeat them decades into the future. Historic Hotels of America is the trust’s program for recognizing and celebrating the finest historic hotels across the country, and for the first time this year, they’re showcasing the Top 25 Most Historic Bars, Taverns and Speakeasies of America that operate inside historic hotels. Our own Bourbon & Banter, the elusive speakeasy beneath The Statler Hotel in downtown Dallas, made the list. Those se- lected can be well-known or well-kept se- crets, but they must preserve their original architectural styles, interior design and his- toric ambiance. The Statler Hotel was com- pleted in 1956, and at the time, it was the first major hotel built in Dallas in over three decades. It helped establish Dallas as the business center of the Southwest, and after undergoing renovations in 2001, it re- emerged in 2017, and the old underground barber shop was transformed into Bourbon & Banter. Bottles of shampoo and conditioner were replaced with bourbon, the lights dimmed, but the spirit of the ‘50s remains, starting with the bars’ whisper of a grand entrance. Seeing a dead end beneath the word “bar” written in red LED lights is not a sig- nal to turn around, but to explore further. There’s no door, a 1950s-era telephone booth and a vintage shoeshine stand. How do you get in? Pick up the phone and it’ll tell you the five-digit code to type in. To the left, a piece of the wall will open, and you’ll step into a dimly lit library of bourbon and spirits. The menu is small here, but interesting enough to spend the evening exploring it. Monday through Friday, classic cocktails are $15 from 4-8 p.m. and Thursdays feature live jazz music starting at 9 p.m. Historic Hotels of America named the Porto Old Fashioned the bar’s signature drink. It’s made with Basil Hayden dark rye, Sagamore small batch, port wine reduction and chocolate and orange bitters. The Pompadour is another exciting choice that’s made with Jim Beam Black, Diplomático Reserva Exclusiva rum, De- merara sugar cube, and the same chocolate and orange bitters. The top of the cocktail is bruleed, and they serve it with a small ham- mer for you to break it. San Antonio Too Two other historic bars in Texas were cho- sen, and they’re both in San Antonio. The first bar is very obviously the bar at The Menger Hotel, located in the heart of the city, adjacent to the Alamo. It was founded in 1859 and was inspired by the House of Lords Pub in England. At the turn of the 20th century, Colonel Leonard Wood and future President of the United States, Theodore Roosevelt, re- cruited over 1,250 men to form the historic Rough Riders regiment during the Spanish- American War. Inside, there are still bullet holes where Roosevelt fired his gun, and while you ponder that, sip on the signature drink, the Old Fashioned. The other is Bar 414 inside The Gunter Hotel (which, according Google is closed right now). This historic hotel dates back to 1909, and the bar is a living tribute to American music history. Tucked behind an ornate gallery wall in the hotel lobby, it oozes jazz, blues and Prohibition-era se- crecy. While military generals, presidents, musicians and celebrities have all gath- ered here, iconic blues artist Robert John- son is the name most famously known here. The bar name pays tribute to his legacy, and the guestroom inside the hotel where he recorded “Sweet Home Chicago” and “Cross Road Blues,” two recordings that became foundational to American blues and rock music. ▼ BBQ CEDAR HILL’S SMOKE SHOW PHAT GIRLZ BBQ IS WORTH A JAUNT SOUTH. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS O n Saturdays, sometimes we like to go on a little foodie road trip. It usually starts by scrolling through Google Maps and repeatedly adjusting the search function. Recently, Phat Girlz BBQ popped up, and since it’s too hot to do any- thing else, we headed out to Cedar Hill just south of Dallas. The AC cranked, naturally. Phat Girlz is off of West Belt Line Road (it really does go on forever) and Main Street in the historic downtown Cedar Hill, about 20 minutes south of downtown Dal- las. The neighborhood gives small-town vibes and has yet to be overrun with indus- trial-style apartments and Starbucks. Yet. There’s a Babe’s Chicken Dinner House around the corner, Mija Barbecue around another corner, and a cafe down the street; a few places to check out should you just feel like wandering. The restaurant’s park- ing lot can get tight (it’s in a courtyard-like area), so a spot along the street might be easier. We reached out to Phat Girlz, but didn’t hear back, which is understandable in the restaurant business. After a bit of sleuthing, we’ve gathered that Phat Girlz BBQ and Ca- tering has been around (in Facebook land at least) since 2015, and moved into its current location at 107 S. Main St. in Cedar Hill in 2018. The tagline at Phat Girlz is “barbecue so good you don’t need sauce,” a concept I’ve given up trying to explain to my family from Kansas. The menu is a beautiful and indulgent mix of soul food and barbecue. It starts with stuffed potatoes, meat plates, sandwiches, sweets and drinks. Meat options, which you can get on just about anything (potatoes, plates or sandwiches), include brisket (sliced or chopped), ribs, rib tips, sausage, chicken breast, links and shrimp. The four sides on offer are mac and cheese, potato salad, baked beans and green beans with smoked turkey. You can also get potatoes as a side. Spicy Chicken Salad Let’s get straight to one of the highlights here: The house-made spicy chicken salad is core to the Phat Girlz’ identity and Cedar Hill should name a street after it. We’ve tried many chicken salads, espe- cially the various options at H-E-B, and this one is superior to all. The chicken is decid- edly smoky, but the other ingredients add a light sweetness. Fresh jalapenos on top and mixed throughout bite back, creating a moist, smoky, sweet and spicy chicken salad that can be a side, a whole meal or some- thing you eat in the car on the way home. We understand why so many of their social me- dia posts are about the status of the chicken salad. We ate ours so fast that we tossed the container before reading the ingredients la- bel, so I can’t really say what else is in it ex- actly, but I don’t need to know. A 12-ounce container is $10 for the regular and $12 for the spicy. The Stuffed Potato For a main, I went for a brisket-loaded baked potato ($14) that was enough for three people. This five-pound tater has finely chopped brisket, a liberal amount of cheddar cheese, butter, fresh chives and thick chunks of bacon with sour cream and barbecue sauce on the side. The brisket alone is moist, has a nice bark, and has the smoky flavor you look for in a brisket. It’s hard to give a full re- view of it since it was chopped up in a po- tato, but I have zero hesitation ordering it on a two-meat plate the next time I’m back. It’s hard to imagine the size of the Infa- mous Potato loaded with chicken, shrimp and Alfredo sauce ($20). Or the Man Man with chicken or brisket and mac and cheese. Other menu highlights that make one re- ally ponder more day trips to Cedar Hill in- clude the Big Girl Sandwich (no other explanation offered) and a rib tip plate with a side of mac and cheese and potato salad ($18). Here’s better or worse news: the banana pudding is on point as well. This is like the classic that mom or grandma used to make. Nothing fancy, just a perfectly basic banana pudding with lots of Nilla Wafers. There’s no indoor seating; Phat Girlz is to go only, but there are a few shaded picnic ta- bles next to the restaurant. There are also a few rules you might want to know before ordering. First of all, no dogs. And when you go to the window to order, make sure you know what you want; no lol- lygagging around while ordering. Fair enough. Everything is made to order, so be pre- pared to wait just a bit, especially when they get busy. We waited about 10 minutes for the tater. In more news, right next to Phat Girlz is the snow cone shop I’ve been looking for since Aunt Stelle’s closed in Oak Cliff. Sneaux Nola, a New Orleans-themed shaved-ice spot, is next door in a small building bathed in gold and purple Big Easy regalia. We didn’t know about this spot, and didn’t plan things correctly, so we can’t report on what is involved in Cre- ole cream topping, but we promise to re- port back. In case you go, there are several picnic tables to sit at, along with some space for kids to play around. Note that Phat Girlz is closed Sunday through Tuesday. Phat Girlz BBQ and Catering, 107 S. Main St., Cedar Hill, Wednesday - Saturday 12 - 6 p.m.; Closed Sunday - Tuesday Prices are as of July 22, 2025. Courtesy of Bourbon and Banter The walls of Bourbon & Banter are lined with nostalgic memorabilia. City of Ate from p11
