18 June 27 - July 3, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Paradise on a Bun From mom-and-pop shops to the most high- end steak houses, the humble burger inspires us. Here are 18 of the best in Dallas. BY ANGIE QUEBEDEAUX, LAUREN DREWES DANIELS AND CHRIS WOLFGANG A nthony Bourdain remains our North Star on a proper burger. In a video he made years ago for Insider Tech, which has racked up millions of views, he describes the perfect burger based on three key factors: a soft squishy po- tato bun; well-ground, good-quality beef; and “more often than not” processed, melt- able cheese. Therein lies the beauty of what Bourdain says: the perfect burger is humble. Here’s an updated list of some of the best burgers in town, most of which line up with Bourdain’s three key factors. But this is Dal- las and so, yes, some are doused in queso, piled with bacon or have a dab of shallot marmalade. But you’ll find one commonal- ity: Most of these burgers start with a nice proper hunk of meat, usually ground in- house, and a soft bun, usually sourced from a local bakery. Let’s get burgered up. AllGood Cafe 2934 Main St. When AllGood Cafe owner Mike Snider started this Deep Ellum institution more than 20 years ago, he didn’t have a burger on the menu. But among Snider’s many inter- ests is an appreciation of Dallas food history, so he built AllGood’s “Best Cheeseburger In Texas” ($16.99) as a nod to the cheeseburger served at The Grape. Come hungry, because this 10-ounce burger doesn’t mess around; there’s melted white cheddar cheese, let- tuce, tomato, bacon and horseradish brined pickles from Hunn’s, which supply pickles to a long list of Dallas restaurants. Dijonaise splits the difference for those who prefer mayo or mustard, and a pain au lait bun does yeoman’s work in holding everything in place. AT Bistro 8305 Westchester Drive AT Bistro in University Park is a menag- erie of cuisines: French, creole, classic Americana and whatever category a kimchi Reuben falls into. What really sets AT Bis- tro’s burger apart from the pack is the 80/20 lean-to-fat, medium-grind blend sourced from Custom Meats on Lovers Lane, which uses New York strip steak and other dry- aged meats. That high-fat content gets stitched in while searing on the grill, which is key to a (we don’t use this word wantonly) juicy burger. The smash-style burger ($18) comes with two 4-ounce patties, AT Bistro sauce, sautéed onions, American cheese and shredded iceberg lettuce nestled inside a sesame bun. Party tip: it’s only $11 during happy hour. Bistro 31 87 Highland Park Village Listen, we know what you’re thinking: two French bistros right out of the gate? Oui. When it comes to Bistro 31, you need to throw any Francophile burger qualms out the window. This Highland Park restaurant uses a blend of whole brisket and chuck, ground in-house, with some New York strips and filet mignon thrown in for good mea- sure. And let’s talk toppings: Tillamook cheddar, house-made pickles, aioli, Bibb let- tuce, beef steak tomato and red onion all piled high on a brioche bun from Empire Baking Co. Sure, it’ll set you back $21, but just let it happen: laissez-faire fare. Blackjack Pizza 2536 MLK Jr. Blvd. and 2120 N. St. Augustine Road Blackjack Pizza might be the ultimate sleeper hit of the Dallas burger scene, with the namesake pizza taking a back seat. These are simple burgers — chunky patties seared on a grill, then loaded with thick slices of tomatoes and onion — reminiscent of the kind Mom or Dad made over long weekends. You can get a double for less than $10, but the single patty cheeseburger is plenty for a meal and is just $6.50. Go for the side of onion rings. But don’t forget Black- jack is cash only and is closed on Sundays. Burger Schmurger At High Fives, 1804 McMillan Ave. Burger Schmurger travels around a bit but is always worth tracking down. Right now you can find it at High Fives in the Knox-Henderson area. This pop-up of sorts is helmed by roaming chef Dave Culwell who uses an 80/20 mix, pressing and sear- ing the beef and onions together on a hot grill. A slice of cheese goes over the patty while it’s on the grill, dissolving into the beef and fat, rendering abstract expressionist carnivorous art. Go for the Maverick: two patties with smoked bacon jam held to- gether with hope and a toasted buttery bun. High five! Del’s Charcoal Burger 110 S. McKinney St., Richardson Del’s has been slinging burgers from a modest Richardson spot since 1957, so chances are they’re doing something right. Maybe it’s the patties cooked over an open flame, the decades of seasoning in the grill imbuing each burger with char-grilled fla- vor. Maybe it’s the red plastic baskets that each burger gets served in that haven’t changed in years, or the house-made root beer that’s served icy cold to wash down your bites. Or maybe it’s the value, like a No. 11 with double meat, double cheese, mus- tard, lettuce, tomato and pickle for just $10.25. Maybe it’s some combination of all of them that keeps Del’s close to our hearts. Goodfriend Beer Garden & Burger House 1154 Peavy Road Goodfriend is an East Dallas favorite. It’s well worn, like those favored old Adidas or jeans, but still has energy and pep. The meat here is a proprietary blend (that means it’s secret and they’re not sharing) of all-Texas beef. Goodfriend boldly has a burger named for the ever-wandering chef, Anthony Bour- dain. Fortunately, it’s worthy. Chef David Pena builds this burger with two 6-ounce smashed patties and double American cheese, simply dressed with Kewpie mayo, pickles, lettuce and tomato. And it’s perfect. HIDE Bar 1928 Greenville Ave. HIDE originally opened in Deep Ellum and closed during the pandemic, but it- breopened on Greenville Avenue in 2023. Luckily, they double bubble-wrapped the OG Double Cheeseburger for the move. This stellar burger is made from a blend of brisket and chuck and is slathered with caramelized beer onions, pickles and garlic aioli on a bri- oche bun, giving it a touch of sweetness. Head over during happy hour so you can score this beast for only $7; otherwise, it’s $15, which includes a side of fries. Hudson House Multiple locations Do you surf and turf? Then Hudson House is the perfect spot for you. This bou- gie destination with several outlets in Dallas and one in Beverly Hills is known for its killer seafood options and coastal vibe, but don’t miss the Hudson House Cheeseburger with two 80/20 thin patties, each topped with a slice of American cheese, thick-cut pickles, onions and Hudson Sauce, a house- made spicy version of Thousand Island dressing. During happy hour (weekdays, 3–6 p.m., bar only) the burger is only $10. Con- sider a side of macaroni and cheese. Kenny’s Burger Joint 5809 Preston Road, Plano, and 1377 Legacy Drive, Frisco This joint is an offshoot of the upscale restaurant Kenny’s Woodfired Grill, where the burgers were magic. After more than a few customer suggestions, founder Kenny Bowers opened Kenny’s Burger Joint, using the same hickory wood-burning grill for half-pound patties. The Bud’s Queso Burger ($11.99) is a behemoth with bacon, sautéed onions and jalapeños all blessed in queso; you’ll need a knife, fork and possibly a spoon to finish it. Another favorite is the Black and Blue ($11.99) with Cajun spices and blue cheese dressing that combines spice with a pungent and tangy twist. And if you’re look- ing for a good kick in the pants, try the sea- sonal Hatch Green Chile Burger. Knox Bistro 3230 Knox St. Knox Bistro, previously Up on Knox, is a classic French brasserie — sneakers or heels will do. You could go high with the Cote de Boeuf Bearnaise (wood-fired bone-in cow- boy prime rib) but go low with the Le Burger au Poivre ($26), a burger blessed in a classic rich French peppercorn cream sauce that is ladled over the patty, forming a pool of love on the plate. This is a knife-and-fork situa- tion. Use the final pieces of the toasted bun to soak up every spec of sauce, or just lick the plate clean. Maple & Motor 4810 Maple Ave. Jack Perkins opened his humble burger abode in 2009, thinking it was going to be a side hustle to his teaching gig. Needless to say, Maple & Motor is a full-time hustle. The burgers — priced to sell at just $8.75 — are a mix of brisket and chuck seared on a hot griddle, turned once; Perkins does not have time to fuss with things. The meat-to-fat ra- tio here has no shame. On a social media job post last year, the restaurant boasted about having their highest sales ever in 15 years of business. In a city that loves to chase a social media trend, that is a testament to getting the simple things right. This is just a damn good burger. | CITY OF ATE | t Dish Lauren Drewes-Daniels Angie Quebedeaux Kathy Tran Angie Quebedeaux
