19 June 26 - July 2, 2025 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Zimmern and Houser shared a long em- brace on stage, and after receiving his Beard medallion, Houser also let loose with his own exasperated “fuck!” as he took in the moment. His speech could choke up the most hardened line cook, and he began by heaping praise on every person in the ser- vice industry while explaining Cafe Mo- mentum’s mission. “I’m often asked if Cafe Momentum has to be a restaurant, and I always say, emphati- cally, ‘Yes!’”Houser said. “Our industry is an integral part of every single community across the country. We provide a gathering space to celebrate, to grieve, and sometimes, to have a conversation that you didn’t realize needed to be had.” Houser went on to explain just how much the youth who participate in Cafe Momentum’s programs benefit from the ex- perience: “For a young person in our program, coming to Cafe Momentum is significant. It’s their opportunity to be in their own space every day, full of people who come from neighborhoods far and wide. It’s in these moments that our kids begin to feel part of a larger community, with a robust network, greater resources and more oppor- tunity. It also means in these moments that our guests get to see our kids walk in their greatness.” “This honor tonight is an important ac- knowledgement that not only are these con- versations happening, but that Cafe Momentum can change juvenile justice, one meal and one conversation at a time.” Houser wrapped up his speech with a call to action to his colleagues in the hospi- tality industry. “My wish tonight is that this award cre- ates more of these opportunities for the more than 60,000 children in this country that are currently incarcerated,” he said. “My hope for everybody in this room, for those 60,000 kids, they hear all of us in this room say ‘We see you, we’re ready for you, we’re here for you.’” In many ways, Dallas coming up largely empty at a major culinary awards show is par for the course. But to dwell on this most recent loss is to miss the point. Last night in Chicago, we were reminded that with Cafe Momentum, we’ve already got a winner in our backyard that’s more impor- tant and more valuable than any star or me- dallion could ever be. ▼ OPENINGS LIKE NOTHING EVER CHANGED RICHARDSON’S OLDEST RESTAURANT IS BACK AFTER A FIRE CLOSED IT FOR 42 DAYS. BY LAUREN DURIE A fter a fiery hiatus, the smoke’s cleared and Richardson’s OG burger joint, Del’s, is back. Founded in 1957, it’s the oldest restaurant in Richard- son, and after an accidental grease fire sparked in the ventilation system on April 25, it had been closed to anxious fans’ dis- may. The blaze started around 4:30 p.m. on a casual Friday with a full dining room, but the Richardson Fire Department got there fast enough that there were no injuries, but just enough damage to shutter the place for 42 days.Family-owned for nearly 70 years, Taher “Hoss” Hossein, who’s run Del’s since 2003, took his time fixing things. New grill, new flattop, shiny new deep fryer, stainless- steel back wall, and a fresh coat of paint. But the soul? It’s the same as it’s always been. And beyond the kitchen upgrades, the décor and dining room look pretty much as they always have, yellow- tinged menu boards, vintage signs, exposed ducts, checkered tablecloths, and wooden chairs, save for one subtle change: the repo- sitioning of a red street sign that reads “Fire Fighter Lane,” a nod to the heroes who kept the local institution alive. They reopened on June 6 to their two busiest days ever, with 400–500 burgers flying out of the tiny kitchen, lines out the door, and people bumping into each other, clamoring for ta- bles. If it’s been a while, or even if you’ve never been, there’s no better time to visit. Welcomed by Big Boy at the counter, it’s a slice of early Americana and Texas pride with mismatched red-white-and-blue ser- vice-station vibes. And sure, they’re famous for their charcoal-grilled cheeseburgers and hand-pulled, homemade root beer served from a dedicated tap in a perfectly frosted mug, but don’t sleep on some of the other menu gems either: crispy onion rings, greasy tots, strawberry cream soda and deep-fried Twinkies that taste like a rainbow-frosted funnel cake; just in time for the Fourth of July to roll around. It’s the same Del’s you always loved: scrappy, satisfying, and if you close your eyes and listen to the sizzle of the grill and the hum of the crowd, you’d swear you’d gone back in time. Del’s Charcoal Burgers 110 S. McKinney St. (Richardson) 10:30 a.m. - 9 p.m. Monday - Saturday; Closed Sunday Welcome to Del’s, nostalgia on a plate. Lauren Durie
