16 June 22 - 28, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents hosts bands from an array of genres. Summer Cocktail Pick: This pick is the toughest of the day. There’s the Twisted Tang, a “margarita only a gringo could love” made with Tang. Or a year-round favorite, the fro- zen YooHoo Yeehaw, a White Russian with YooHoo. Parliament 2418 Allen St. Stepping inside Parliament is like traveling back in time to the barrooms and clubs of the early 1900s. With one of the best happy hours in town, Parliament sports a sophisti- cated selection of craft cocktails, like a Ra- mos Gin Fizz and more than a hundred others. Nestled in the State Thomas Histori- cal District, this Uptown spot is brought to us by Dallas’ cocktail king Eddie “Lucky” Campbell. Parliament went up in the foot- print of the old Four Lounge space on Allen Street. Campbell described his vision for Parliament as a “progressive cocktail lounge,” with a mad-scientist style of drink- making. Campbell and his staff have lived up to that vision ever since. Summer Cocktail Pick: The Original Gangster has a hint of spice, gin, lime, cucum- ber and basil. It’s like one of those healthy green drinks, with booze. Revelers Hall 412 N. Bishop Ave. Revelers Hall is a time capsule from 1920s New Orleans. The venue’s house band, a big band led by Kevin Butler, entertains patrons with the energy of Mardi Gras, creating a mood so festive it just dares you to take your top off to collect imaginary beads. Don’t try it. Do try the items on the menu, which in- clude flatbreads, cheese boards and char- cuterie. The lively, bombastic sounds of brass will invite you to dance well down the street. Revelers Hall is also a favored joint of legends Shelley Carroll and Liz Mikel. It’s not for people looking to enjoy a boring, quiet beer. You can stay home for that. Summer Cocktail Pick: The Sazerac is a classic New Orleans cocktail, and when in Rome, right? But that hit of absinthe might be a lot for the hot Dallas days. Try the Highland Time, a frozen cocktail made of smooth and citrusy whiskey, Aberfeldy 12, along with lots of coconut and mango. Swizzle 1802 Greenville Ave. Dallas got its first proper tiki bar in 2020, smack dab in the middle of a pandemic. But, you can’t keep a good grind down. Fully vested in every aspect of island life, includ- ing a Dole whip machine and tropical drinks served in SPAM tins, this spot on Lowest Greenville serves traditional Hawaiian plates with a side of floral every inch of the way. The water feature on the patio adds a nice island touch if you prefer to sit outside. There are private lounge areas inside that can be reserved for groups. Aloha and mah- alo, time to get the grass skirt out. Summer Cocktail Pick: Easy. Swizzle has one of the few boozy Dole Whips in town. It’s a mix of pineapple with just the right amount of don’t-give-a-damn anymore. Drink up. But go early, because they often run out. Thunderbird Station 3400 Commerce St. A cousin to Double Wide and Single Wide, Thunderbird Station is just outside Deep El- lum proper on Commerce. With specialty cocktails like the Peel Out — a Push-Up Pop- inspired orange, vanilla and vodka drink — and upgraded spins on Southern favorites like sloppy Joes, bologna sandwiches and Frito pie, Thunderbird Station takes its ‘50s vintage gas station aesthetic quite seriously. The Boss comes with fried or grilled bolo- gna, cheese, grilled onion, jalapeños and a secret sauce. Or try one of the variations of a sloppy Joe; the Sloppy Joelen is vegan. The large patio has plenty of room to spread out and gather together. Summer Cocktail Pick: This summer get the seasonal Peachy Keen made with a Fistful of Bourbon with fresh peach and vanilla. Tiny Victories 604 N. Tyler St. One appeal of Tiny Victories might be that it’s near the Bishop Arts District, but not in it. Not that we don’t love the eclectic enter- tainment area, but you need to stretch out before you try to find parking. Here, at West Davis and Tyler Street, is a cozy cock- tail den with a patio and happy hour that says, “Well, hi there, neighbor,” with a wink. Half-priced cocktails are offered from 4 to 7 p.m. every Tuesday through Fri- day. The cocktail menu has classics like a 1916 Aviation with gin, Luxardo Mara- schino, Creme de Violette and lemon. From the not-so-classic menu try a house shot called Spring Break ‘99 (strawberry and vodka). My Neck, My Daq is a Miller High Life with a “Snaquiri.” Now, see, that is a tiny victory. Besides, who doesn’t love a place with a Bob Ross shrine? Summer Cocktail Pick: Tiny Victories ro- tates a fresh seasonal menu but you’ll have to show up to see what’s on it. But as mentioned above, the My Neck, My Daq — a Miller High Life and Snaquiri — literally always hits the spot. And it’s only $8. ▼ BRUNCH EATING WITH ROYALTY WE VISITED HAMBURGER MARY’S FOR BRUNCH, WHERE THE OMELETS, BURRITOS AND MIMOSAS WERE ALMOST AS AMAZING AS THE DRAG QUEENS. BY TYLER HICKS I t’s a blazing Sunday morning in Oak Lawn, the kind of day that’s already un- bearable by 11 a.m. Well before you reach the door of Hamburger Mary’s, one of the neighborhood’s newest additions, you hear the crowd’s whoops and hollers escaping from the bar and filling the otherwise quiet area with a palpable joy. Inside the popular franchise’s Dallas location, which opened June 1 amid threats of protest, a succession of drag queens are careening, faux-crooning and somersaulting around crowded tables while songs by Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Katy Perry play in the background. The audience — eclectic, diverse and brim- ming with energy — shouts approval and affirmations while handing each per- former a wad of dollar bills. In a scene like this, it’d be easy for the food itself to get overshadowed. So it’s a credit to Hamburger Mary’s that the brunch is a fine complement to the main attraction: the drag stars. The restaurant hosts drag bingo every Sunday, and brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. While Hamburger Mary’s is perhaps best known for its eponymous patties, they also serve waffles, omelettes, a traditional breakfast of toast, hash browns and eggs, and both a breakfast burrito and breakfast burger (it’s their traditional burger, plus a fried egg). The highlight, though, is clearly the mi- mosa. Infused with just the right amount of orange juice (i.e., a dash), the drink is both the perfect drag brunch companion and a suitable balm for the heat of a summer day in Dallas. Another key perk is the restaurant’s rela- tive affordability. For instance, $15 for chicken and waffles — tasty chicken and waffles, at that — is a bargain. The dish in- cludes a sizable waffle and a few fried chicken strips, each boasting flavorful breading that pairs well with a fluffy, but- tery, syrup-topped waffle. It’s filling enough on its own, but if you’re craving something a little extra, you can have your waffles in- fused with chocolate chips or bacon. Speaking of meat, Mary’s Burrito can be filled with beef, chicken, bacon and black beans. The chicken is a reliable choice, but this offering ultimately can’t hold a candle to the chicken and waffles. Blame the tortilla, which tastes dry and flaky, thus necessitat- ing more mimosa (which, come to think of it, might be a good thing). For those who want a true lunch-break- fast combo, the Brunch Burger is a solid bet. This restaurant has the kind of juicy burgers that taste fresh while satisfying diners’ crav- ings for something wholesome, juicy and just a little greasy. The fried egg atop the plump patty doesn’t add much of anything in the way of flavor, but it doesn’t detract from the fulfilling experience that is a ham- burger at Hamburger Mary’s. Then you have the omelettes. Mary’s ver- sion of the classic Denver Omelette (eggs, ham, onion, bell peppers and cheddar cheese) is nothing to write home about. But the “Big D” Omelette is a keeper. The kitchen staff empties the sink for this one, pouring mushrooms, cheddar and jack cheese into a medley of ham, bacon, onions and bell peppers. All of that said, the main attraction at Hamburger Mary’s is and always will be the drag queens. They could liven up far worse fare, which is another way of saying that these omelettes, burritos and breakfast burgers don’t have to be as good as they are. The fact that they’re quite good only makes Hamburger Mary’s a must-visit, particularly given the courage it takes to host regular drag shows in a state whose legislature files increasingly aggressive anti-LGBTQ+ bills each session. On that note, it’s worth mentioning that the restaurant’s drag bingo supports a differ- ent charity each week. On its first Sunday, the event’s proceeds went to the Human Rights Campaign, which has now issued the first-ever state of emergency alert for LG- BTQ+ Americans. It’s highly possible the establishment will be shunned in the future, although its lead- ers are puzzled by some of the criticism re- ceived at other locations. For instance, the talking point that drag shows are bad for kids doesn’t even apply in this case. “The backlash doesn’t make sense to me, because we’re a 21-and-up restaurant,” Tan- ner Roberts, the restaurant’s food and bever- age director, told the Observer earlier this summer. “We just want people to have fun.” ▼ EAT THIS PASSIONATE ABOUT PASTRIES AT OLLIO PATISSERIE, A SMALL-TOWN BAKER CONTINUES TO FOLLOW HER BIG-TIME DREAM. BY ANISHA HOLLA T his hidden gem in The Colony could be one of North Texas’ best-kept se- crets. Ollio Patisserie doesn’t appear to have much of a presence on Google, social media or even among local Yelpers. Maybe Tyler Hicks While the food is great, the real draw at Hamburger Mary’s is the drag queens. Bars of Summer from p15
