15 June 20 - 26, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Make Yourself at Home NFL linebacker Matthew Judon gets into the Dallas restaurant game with Cajun-styled Nines. BY ALEXIS CASTILLO Y ou don’t necessarily have to dress to the nines to dine at NINE Kitchen and Lounge — at least, that’s the vibe co- owner and NFL linebacker Matthew Judon is going for. Readers may recognize Judon from his jersey number 9 for the New England Patri- ots, or number 99 for the Baltimore Ravens. But at his restaurant in Victory Park, he’s working on his game in the kitchen. Judon and his business partner, Robert Morris, opened NINE to the public on May 9. The swank restaurant is half a mile south of the American Airline Center (an easy 10-minute walk), on the edge of Victory Park. The kitchen and bar are fully staffed and the Cajun-style menu is set, but Judon said NINE will always be a work in progress, as he constantly looks to improve guests’ ex- perience with each visit. More importantly, the entrepreneurial duo hopes to provide a feel-good, at-home experience. “I want it to feel like you went some- where and you took your shoes off,” Judon says. “You feel comfortable taking your shoes off at somebody’s house, and it’s not forced. That’s kind of what I want to bring to the restaurant.” A Cajun menu delivered by a Louisiana- born native should be a no-brainer, but Judon and Morris credit NINE’S culinary control to chef Uwwy, who heads up the kitchen. If you find yourself on a green barstool before dinner, you may want to check out the VP Breeze, made from Hendricks gin, lemon, lavender and cucumber. No, it won’t put hair on your chest, but it is a sweet and easy-to-enjoy cocktail. The first course of the night was the “NINE Salad,” which is a mix of greens tossed in a vinaigrette dressing with pickled banana peppers, crispy shallots, watermelon radish, avocado, squash and pickled red on- ions. The dish has a pretty strong “pickled” taste, so vinegar lovers, you’re in luck. While this item is entirely vegetarian, we couldn’t help but notice the slightest hint of smoky flavor, almost like bacon. The second course of the evening was Judon’s favorite item on the menu: fried green tomatoes. Sure, Texans will deep fry just about anything, but this starter’s presen- tation radiates pure elegance. It is plated with an edible flower and whipped remoulade on the side with a slight pickled taste. The lob- ster mac and cheese is classic macaroni pasta drenched in creamy cheese sauce. Black pep- per is a recurring theme here, but if tradi- tional Cajun seafood isn’t your jam, this is a safe bet for those with a tamer palette. Next up was the catfish over dirty rice, a Creole staple. Trust us when we say there’s no need for a knife, as this tender entree cuts like butter. This was by far the spiciest item of the night, so Cajun cuisine novices may want to approach with caution. Lastly, we tried the Jerked New Zealand Lamb, served bone-in atop grits | CITY OF ATE | t Dish Alexis Castillo >> p16 Catfish over dirty rice at NINE Kitchen and Lounge. Alexis Castillo Jerked New Zealand Lamb served on grits with Meyer lemon gel essence.
