13 May 25 - 31, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents With 11 different specialty burgers, you can try a different one every day of the week and still have leftovers. Feeling hungover? The Nooner is the perfect cure, with a slice of American cheese, applewood smoked bacon, ham, hash browns and a fried egg. And let’s not forget the Baby Bella burger, with sautéed mushrooms, a big onion ring, basil garlic aioli and so much queso it will drip down your hands, a sure sign of a great feast. And don’t skip the sweet potatoes dusted in a house spice. Maple & Motor 4810 Maple Ave. (Medical District) Jack Perkins opened his humble burger abode in 2009, thinking it was going to be a side hustle to his teaching gig. Needless to say, Maple & Motor is a full-time hustle. The burgers — priced to sell at just $8.75 — are a mix of brisket and chuck seared on a hot griddle, turned once; Perkins does not have time to fuss with things. The meat-to-fat ratio here has no shame. On a recent social media job post, the restaurant boasted about having their highest sales ever in 15 years of business, which in a city that loves to chase a social media trend is a testament to getting the simple things right. This is just a damn good burger. Meridian 5650 Village Glen Drive (The Village) Meridian may serve a fancy-pants four- course prix-fixe menu in the main dining area, but let’s not forget about the bar offerings, specifically the X-Tudo [sheesh- tu-du] Burger. Two Rosewood wagyu beef patties coalesce with Gruyere, a maitake aioli and slightly sweet shallot marmalade, all nestled in a sourdough potato bun that’s made in-house. It’s $17, and you may think you can share one, but don’t do that; this burger is not for sharing (lesson learned). For a side, get the Brazilian grilled Beach Cheese: a long stick of cheese served warm with a drizzle of hot honey over it. This isn’t a meal, it’s an experience. The Peak Inn 132 N. Peak St. (East Dallas) The Peak Inn is like that cool older cousin who lets you do things your parents wouldn’t. It’s a grown-up’s bar with Stone Temple Pilots on the jukebox and vintage Coors signs that somehow still work. It takes us back to a time when, let’s be honest, we were all a little less stressed. The burgers here are taken seriously (all the food is, for that matter) but not like $27-serious. The Lil’ Kahuna Burger is a house favorite and is $10.50 with fries. Two one-third-pound patties (ground in- house) come with from-scratch Thousand Island dressing along with a slice of American cheese. Local bakery Signature Baking provides the bun, which is buttered and toasted. The kitchen stays open until 1:30 a.m. every night. Mom might not like you being out so late, but blame it on that cousin. Rodeo Goat Multiple Locations Rodeo Goat offers some fantastic burgers as part of its regular menu, but the Battle of the Burgers reigns. Each month they introduce two contenders in a head-to-head competition. Your order equals one vote, and democracy never tasted so good. The winner gets bragging rights and, in some cases, becomes the burger to beat the following month. For May it’s The Rebel versus The Empire. The Rebel is a thick all- beef patty topped with Mexican street corn, queso fresco, cilantro and lime mayo on a brioche bun. The Empire comes with two smash patties, sliced roast beef, provolone, Guinness Stout onions, red bell peppers and horseradish mayo served on a torta roll with a dark au jus for dipping. We recently took both on and The Empire reigned supreme. Sky Rocket Burger Multiple Locations Sky Rocket Burger is the type of joint that brings you right back to your childhood; as soon as you walk in scents from the well- seasoned grill hit you. They use quarter- pound Angus beef patties, all ground on-site. It’s not fancy like the burgers you see on Instagram, but it doesn’t need to be. Nothing is bungled by being overdesigned. A single with cheese is $7.49. But if you’re looking to play a little, pay attention to the add-ons like spicy mayo, a secret sauce, grilled jalapeños or onions. Or get all of them — yes, do that. Get all of them. Wingfield’s Breakfast & Burger 2615 S. Beckley Ave. (Oak Cliff) Burgers here start at $10, and a double with bacon combo will run you a full $20 — not for bougie reasons, but because it’s so much food. Wingfield’s has challenge-level servings. We ordered a double with bacon just to show the kids, “See there? That’s how they do it at Wingfield’s,” and they’ll always remember that day and place. Wingfield’s has been smashing huge meat patties on the grill since the mid-’80s and has acquired a large following who patiently hawk parking spaces and then hop into the tiny spot to pick up orders. You can (and should) order ahead online. Despite the name, Wingfield’s doesn’t serve breakfast and it’s closed on Sundays. t FIRST LOOK SAY ALOHA TERIYAKI 4 U BRINGS HAWAII TO CARROLLTON (DO NOT MISS THE CRAB RANGOON). BY CHRIS WOLFGANG S everal years ago, I made my first visit to Hawaii. We stepped off the plane in Honolulu, got our rental car and beelined it out of the city and up the coast towards Kailua. We stopped at a roadside shack for some lunch, and I got a quintessential local meal: the Hawaiian plate. There’s usually a protein (mine was a succulent kalua pork), macaroni salad and rice, all piled high into a plastic container. I ate a lot of great food on that trip, but the Hawaiian plate sticks with me every time I think of Hawaiian fare. Fast forward to last week, a friend called me and said she was having a late lunch at Carrollton’s newest Asian casual restaurant, Terikyaki 4 U, and invited me to join her. When I arrived, my friend was sitting with owner Josh Bonee, whose resume includes Stephan Pyles Flora Street Cafe and Fine China, while she worked through a teriyaki salmon entree. I took one look at the fish, sitting on a bed of rice with a side of slaw and macaroni salad, all tucked into a square takeout container, and blurted out, “This looks like something you’d get on Oahu!” Turns out, that’s exactly what Bonee and his team were aiming for. He opened Teriyaki 4 U a few weeks ago in northwest Carrollton. Opening an Asian spot just north of Carrollton’s cornucopia of Asian restaurants and markets on Old Denton Road seems bold, but according to Bonee, he found a real gap in places that serve food as you’d find in the Aloha State. “It kind of went in that [Hawaiian] direction,” Bonee said of his plans for the restaurant. “We tried a couple of Hawaiian places and didn’t see anything special. So we thought, what if I take a fine-dining background and take it fast casual?” For a fast-casual spot with a heavy takeout focus, it’s easy to see the elevated techniques that Bonee and his team bring to Teriyaki 4 U. Perhaps it’s because Bonee has experience at both ends of the service spectrum, from his time at Flora Street Cafe to his latest work at Lucky’s Hot Chicken. At Teriyaki 4 U, everything is made from scratch, while a charcoal grill imbues the proteins with a flavor that can’t be matched by other cooking methods. The grill isn’t just for meats. Bonee also uses it to sear pineapple spears ($4), then hits them with a splash of teriyaki and a light dusting of gochugaru, a Korean chili flake. Grilling the pineapple caramelizes the sugars, and the teriyaki and chili City of Ate from p11 Goodfriend Beer Garden & Burger House 1154 Peavy Road (East Dallas) Goodfriend is a signature piece of East Dallas. It’s well worn, like those favored old Adidas or jeans, but still has energy and pep. The meat here is a proprietary blend (that means it’s secret and they’re not sharing) of all-Texas beef. Goodfriend boldly has a burger named for the ever-wandering chef, Anthony Bourdain. Fortunately, it’s worthy. Two 6-ounce smashed patties and double American cheese is simply dressed with Kewpie mayo, pickles, lettuce and tomato. And it’s perfect. HIDE Bar 1928 Greenville Ave. (Lower Greenville) HIDE originally opened in Deep Ellum and closed during the pandemic, but it recently reappeared on Greenville Avenue. Luckily, they double bubble-wrapped the OG Double Cheeseburger for the move. This stellar burger is made from a blend of brisket and chuck and slathered with caramelized beer onions, pickles and garlic aioli on a brioche bun, giving it a touch of sweetness. Head over during happy hour so you can score this beast for only $7; otherwise, it’s $15, which includes a side of fries. Hudson House Multiple Locations Do you surf and turf? Then Hudson House is the perfect spot for you. This bougie destination with several outlets in Dallas and one in Beverly Hills is known for its killer seafood options and coastal vibe, but don’t miss the Hudson House Cheeseburger. It’s the stuff of legend. Two 80/20 thin patties are each topped with a slice of American cheese, thick-cut pickles, onions and Hudson Sauce, a house-made spicy version of Thousand Island dressing. During happy hour (weekdays, 3–6 p.m., bar only) the burger is only $10. Consider getting a side of macaroni and cheese. Kenny’s Burger Joint 5809 Preston Road (Plano) and 1377 Legacy Drive (Frisco) This joint is an offshoot of the upscale restaurant Kenny’s Wood Fired Grill, where the burgers were magic. After more than a few customer suggestions, founder Kenny Bowers opened Kenny’s Burger Joint, using the same hickory wood-burning grill for half-pound patties. The Bud’s Queso Burger ($11.99) is a behemoth with bacon, sautéed onions and jalapeños all blessed in queso; you’ll need a knife, fork and possibly a spoon to finish it. Another favorite is the Black and Blue ($11.99) with Cajun spices and blue cheese dressing combining spice with a pungent and tangy twist. And if you’re looking for a good kick in the pants, try the seasonal Hatch Green Chile Burger. Liberty Burger Multiple Locations Ah, Liberty Burger, where some of the burgers are so messy, you need a bib to eat them. This locally owned spot uses a custom beef blend of chuck, tenderloin and brisket. >> p14 Crab Rangoon at Teriyaki 4 U Chris Wolfgang
