11 May 25 - 31, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Paradise on a Bun Dallas’ best burgers, 2023 edition. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS AND ANGIE QUEBEDEAUX A nthony Bourdain has a video on Insider Tech about the perfect burger. It’s racked up more than one million views over the past six years. Hopefully, that number continues to grow because, as usual, the chef’s discernment of America’s most unifying food is absolute. Bourdain, who died in 2018, said a perfect burger has three key factors: a soft squishy potato bun, well-ground, good- quality beef and “more often than not” processed meltable cheese. A good ol’ slice of American cheese. He also notes that a squashed “grey” patty in the In-N-Out model is also perfect. That’s it. Herein lies the beauty of what Bourdain says, which mimics many of the great burgers around Dallas: It’s not a CVS receipt of components. A perfect burger is simple yet satisfying. Humble. Following is an updated list of some of the best burgers in Dallas, most of which line up with Bourdain’s three key factors. But this is Dallas and so, yes, some are doused in queso, piled with bacon or have a dab of shallot marmalade. But you’ll find one commonality: Most of these burgers start with a nice proper hunk of meat, usually ground in-house, and a soft bun, usually sourced from a local bakery. Let’s eat. AT Bistro 8305 Westchester Drive (Park Cities) AT Bistro in University Park opened last summer with a menagerie of cuisines: French, creole, classic Americana and whatever category a kimchi Reuben falls into. What really sets the burger apart from the pack is the 80/20 lean-to-fat, medium- grind blend sourced from Custom Meats on Lovers Lane, which uses New York strip steak and other dry-aged meats. That high- fat content gets stitched in while searing on the grill, which is key to a (we don’t use this word wantonly) juicy burger. The smash- style burger ($18) comes with two 4-ounce patties, AT Bistro sauce, sautéed onions, American cheese and shredded iceberg lettuce nestled inside a sesame bun. Party tip: it’s only $11 during happy hour. Bistro 31 87 Highland Park Village (Highland Park) Listen, we know what you’re thinking: two French bistros right out of the gate? Oui. When it comes to Bistro 31, you need to throw any Francophile burger qualms out the window. This Highland Park restaurant uses a blend of whole brisket and chuck, ground in-house, with some New York strips and filet mignon thrown in for good measure. And let’s talk toppings: Tillamook cheddar, house-made pickles, aioli, Bibb lettuce, beef steak tomato and red onion all piled high on a brioche bun from Empire Baking Co. Sure, it’ll set you back $21, but just let it happen: laissez-faire fare. Blackjack Pizza 2536 MLK Jr. Blvd. (South Dallas) and 2120 N. St. Augustine Road (Pleasant Grove) Blackjack Pizza might be the ultimate sleeper hit of the Dallas burger scene, with the namesake pizza perhaps taking a back seat. These are simple burgers — chunky patties seared on a grill, then loaded with thick slices of tomatoes and onion — reminiscent of the kind Mom or Dad made on long weekends. You can get a double for less than $10, but the single patty cheeseburger is plenty for a meal and just $6.50. Go for the side of onion rings. But don’t forget Blackjack is cash only and is closed on Sundays. Burger Schmurger Craft and Growler, 3601 Parry Ave. (Fair Park) Dave Culwell is a musician with a grilling problem. After years of cooking for his family and friends, sometimes bemoaning more “burger schmurgers,” he got really good at it. His daughter suggested he take his burger game on the road, so he started popping up at breweries, and the concept caught fire (flame emoji). Now you can catch these smashed burgers at Craft and Growler, where Culwell uses an 80/20 mix, pressing and searing the beef and onions together on a hot griddle. A slice of cheese goes over the patty while it’s on the grill, dissolving into the beef and fat, rendering abstract expressionist carnivorous art. Go for the Maverick: two patties with smoked bacon jam held together with hope and a toasted buttery bun. Wash it all down with Craft and Growler’s Schmurger Blonde. Douglas Bar and Grill 6818 Snider Plaza (Park Cities) Douglas Bar and Grill is making a name for itself with barbecue and Southern cooking, but the burgers are no sideshow. The Douglas is the most expensive burger on this list at $25, but that’s because it’s mammoth and made with two wagyu smash patties loaded with pimento cheese, barbecue sauce and either brisket or pulled pork. If that doesn’t work into your budget, hit up their happy hour (Monday to Friday, 4–6 p.m.), where the more modest smash burger with those same double wagyu patties, cheese and caramelized onions is just $10 (it’s $19 at lunch). Get an order of the pimento fries topped with bacon while you’re at it. | CITY OF ATE | t Dish Kathy Tran >> p13 The Bourdain Burger from Goodfriend Beer Garden & Burger House
