12 May 14 - 20, 2026 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents ▼ LOCAL LEGENDS A MIGHTY ASK LAKEWOOD LANDING’S OWNER IS IN NEED OF A LIVING-KIDNEY TRANSPLANT DONOR. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS L akewood Landing has served as a master blueprint for dive bars in Dallas since the ‘60s. There’s a jukebox, a pool table and salty bartenders. The lights are low, the fixtures aren’t modern; there’s no Instagram wall, the bathroom “doors” are works of art. The deep pleather booths definitely have stories to tell. Did we mention the best bar seat in Dallas is the single by the door? Oh, and the late-night corndogs (served only after 11 p.m. and made with local sausage) are legendary. We ranked the top 12 bars in Dallas, and Lakewood is No. 1. That’s how much we like it. Bill Rossell has owned the humble white abode on Live Oak Street in East Dallas, spe- cifically in the Lakewood neighborhood, since 1998. And now, he needs a little help. The First Transplant In a previous interview, Rossell told us that one of his bartenders, Roger Nelson, who passed away in October 2023, saved his life. “I got really sick, and I had to have a liver transplant, and it came to that point where it was around Christmas and they [the hospi- tal] sent me home. There was nothing else they could do.” He was put on a waiting list and got a call, but it turned out to be a false alarm. When the second call came, in a state of hopeless- ness, he feared it was another false alarm and wouldn’t go. Nelson drove to his house to get him. “He came over and picked me up, threw me in his truck and took me,” Rossell says of Nelson. A decade later, the anti-rejection drugs he’s taken since that transplant have se- verely damaged his kidneys. Rossel posted on Facebook earlier this week to explain more: Rossell goes on to explain in the post what is involved in testing and kidney trans- plants. He’s a patient at UT Southwestern, which handles all the logistics, questions and screening. Rossell realizes this is a big ask, “It’s not lost on me.” But if donating isn’t something a person can do, then sharing the post, talking about it or, he writes, “Pointing me toward someone who might be open to learning more,” are all options. Get more information about kidney transplants through UT Southwestern. ▼ TACO TIME THE WHOLE TACO WE TRIED MOST OF THE MENU AT A POPULAR NEW SPOT. HERE’S WHAT TO GET AND WHAT TO PASS ON BY COURTNEY E. SMITH T hese days, the streets of Oak Lawn are dotted with more and more ex- pensive neighborhood restaurants and a smattering of fine-dining options with Michelin and James Beard recognition. But a vestige of the Oak Lawn that once was remains, with new af- fordable places still popping up. One such spot is Taco Juancho, which opened in Sep- tember 2025 and was recently anointed as one of the “hottest” new taquerias in the na- tion. It’s a Mexico City-inspired taqueria from Alejandra Murillo, who previously owned Torterías El Atoron. It’s similar in vibes to Chilangos, Donde Los Tacos and Tacos El Metro — bright or- ange everywhere, neon signs, deeply un- comfortable metal chairs, you know the drill. The menu has an array of street tacos, served in freshly made corn tortillas, with a long list of proteins and some vegetarian op- tions. Yes, you can get a Jarrito, a Mexican Coke, or a frozen margarita. But there is a lot more to explore. Must-Orders Gaonera de Ribeye ($7.96): The very best thing here is this shaved rib-eye inside a blue corn tortilla, with melted cheese. Topped with grilled onions and green bell peppers, the meat is soft and luscious, per- fectly tender with little fat. All that cheese is just a divine addition. It will make you stand up and yell ¡Ahuevo! The only thing we sug- gest adding is some guacamole, because the luxurious healthy fats in it play so nicely with the lean meat and cheese. Huitlacoche Quesadilla ($7.95): One thing you need to know about Mexico City quesa- dillas is that they don’t necessarily include cheese — for that, you just order con queso. Cheese is kept to a minimum here to make room for fresh corn kernels, corn fungus widely called a Mexican truffle, mushrooms, and grilled onions, all served on a blue corn tortilla. Barbacoa taco ($2.99): Whatever this place is doing to mix up its barbacoa is working soooooooo well. One bite into this is a step into the gates of heaven. It’s smoky, spicy, acidic and earthy all at once. It’s so easy to take down a whole plate of these. Also served in the blue corn quesadillas, if you want it with some queso. The trio ($7.25): Don’t just go for one when you can have all three: chips with salsa, white queso and guacamole. Each is the platonic ideal of the dish, and that white queso has quite a little kick to it. Plus, the servings are big enough to adorn your tacos. Pretty Darn Good Suadero, Nopalitos, Asada and Chicharron Prensado tacos ($2.99 each) — Look, these are all adequate and enjoyable. The suadero and asada were tops, while the nopalitos and chicharron lagged slightly behind but were still good. The barbacoa is simply miles better than any of these, but if you want something with less of a stewed vibe and more of a sliced meat vibe, these are all solid options. Mix and match any of them into a great plate of street tacos. Wouldn’t Do It Again Pollo, campechano and pastor tacos ($2.99 each): The pollo is dry, especially compared to any other meat. So was the pastor. Maybe they’re better earlier in the day, but both had the feel of having sat out in a try under heat lamps for too long. The campechano was just a let-down because the textures weren’t what I hoped for. The pork skin wasn’t crispy and the mixture of meats didn’t flow together harmoniously. Frozen mango margarita ($9.99): It was fine, but felt expensive for the size and qual- ity. And it is served in a disposable cup, which doesn’t feel fun. When I go back again, I will order the Paloma, which comes in a beautiful clay mug. Taco Juancho, 3604 Oak Lawn Ave. Mon- day - Thursday 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday 8 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday 10 a.m. - 10 p.m. THE SUADERO AND ASADA WERE TOPS, WHILE THE PALITOS AND CHICHARRON WERE MERELY GOOD. Lakewood Landing owner Bill Rossell (on left) is in need of a kidney transplant Tacos Juancho’s trio of tacos Courtesy of Bill Rossell Photo by Courtney Smith
