17 April 25 - MAy 1, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents B U RG E RW E E K DA L L A S . C O M D beit sometimes forgotten, it’s a reminder of the principles of inclusivity, compassion, and free- dom for everyone. Including the people that keep Arby’s in business. America is the beneficiary of past immi- grants who have left significant and inspir- ing imprints from sea to shining sea. Newcomers to this land, past and present, have always affected the way we live, the way we work, and especially the way we eat. Perhaps there should be an addendum made to the heartfelt poem “The New Colos- sus” by Emma Lazarus, “Give me your tired, your poor, and your most delicious recipes.” Spain’s past conquests have left an irre- futable impression on not just the U.S., but all parts of the Americas, including the Ca- ribbean. The new restaurant Cafe Ameri- cana in central Arlington is an homage to some of those dishes that helped cultivate and influence our evolving taste for some- thing new. Cafe Americana is at 403 E. Main St., tucked behind the Arlington institution Shi- pley’s Donuts. Arriving is like stumbling upon a hidden tropical enclave. Punchy Latin jazz loud enough to move to (but not too loud to talk over) pairs immaculately with the vibrant interior. Elegant paintings adorn the emerald walls, and lush plants flow from every corner. The décor master- fully encompasses both sultry sophistication and a cozy-chill ambiance, making it a prime location to share with an inspiring crush in a semiprivate dining room. Or grab a large ta- ble for your circle of friends. In addition to big communal tables and a nice patio, a long bar stretches the length of the dining room and is split in two by the food pass. Grab a barstool on the open kitchen side and watch dishes being made, prepped and sent to their new forever home. Or belly up at the other end of the bar, near the liquor bottles, to take shots and chat up the bartender. After soaking in the mesmerizing sur- roundings, we decided to take a look at the menu. Admittedly, we were a tad nervous about how much a night out at this char- treuse abode would set us back. Fortunately, Arlington is not necessarily known for its high-end dining experiences and hip liba- tions, and we breathed a sigh of relief when we saw the menu prices. We decided to order as much food as we thought our bellies could hold without our legs crumpling out from under us. Cafe Americana is a Spanish-inspired restaurant, so most plates are to share. For drinks, we ordered the TX Oil Money ($12), a delightful bourbon old fashioned made with homemade orange saccharum. We also tried the Mojito Tropical ($10), with rum, wa- termelon, lime brown sugar and mint. The Rude Boy Punch ($12) had us wishing Arling- ton had a beach with some cabanas. Some of these cocktails are on tap, which is ideal for a pit-stop during happy hour. For dinner, we started with the yucca bravas with a garlic confit aioli ($8). Bravas are the fancy Spanish cousin of the Ameri- can French fry. The thick-cut squares have a crisp exterior and are served with a house- made garlic and olive oil aioli. Next came the jerk chicken empanada ($13), a great mash-up of Argentina’s empanadas and Jamaica’s beef patty. While light and fluffy with a croissant-like texture, these don’t have the strong jerk flavor we’d hoped for. But that doesn’t stop us from declaring it one of the best empanadas in North Texas. The delicate flavors of the accompanying mint sauce earn it five stars. The empanadas are hard to top here, but the paella ($13) and Cowboy Rib-Eye ($63) rose to the challenge. Spanish paella is tradi- tionally made with a mix of meats and sea- food cooked in a large pan and shared by many. The great thing here is that there are other options for those who have seafood al- lergies, and although they come out in smaller pans, the portions are still shareable. The crispy pork paella is the work of gen- eral manager and chef Mark Guatelara, whose Filipino heritage and love of all foods helped create this delectable dish. “Spain had influences all over the Ameri- cas, but they also spent a long time in the Philippines, too,” he reminded us. We tried both the seafood and pork pa- ella. They’re both listed as sides on the menu, but these are whole meals. The sea- food paella comes packed with mussels, shrimp, chorizo and colorful vegetables mixed in saffron rice. The 20-ounce Cowboy Rib-Eye topped with chimichurri was utterly out of this world and comparable to any Texas steak- house. The steak was flawlessly grilled and remained moist and tender enough to cut with a spoon. It left us wondering what we do wrong grilling steaks at home. We still don’t know, but we enjoyed each gratifying morsel of meat. The garlic broccolini side paired espe- cially well with the rib-eye, with a light char and beaming with a collage of delicate and bold flavors. Our legs were starting to buckle and our waist was expanding, but we still decided to cap things off with a shared dessert. Sticking with the tropical vibes, we landed on the housemade coconut cake ($15). The cake is a scene, and others will order it after seeing it pass through the dining room. There are about seven layers here, each filled with cream cheese icing and topped with lightly torched meringue. A dark rum pineapple sauce is served on the side. Like everything else here, it’s big enough to share. This mouthwatering slice of delight has a great balance of sweet- ness, and the burnt topping gives it a welcom- ing texture. As far as the pineapple rum sauce, we’d buy it by the gallon. The bar is the type of space where they casually ask you if you want a shot and you’ll be like, “Yeah, I do.” These fruity lemon wedges are best with a pinch of salt tossed over the top. The rest is history. Cafe Americana has been open for only a few weeks, but it’s already getting an electric buzz. Besides the great food and awesome staff, the space is large and includes a patio with live music on the weekends. If paradise isn’t in the budget this year, don’t fret. Cafe Americana brings tropical flavors of the Spanish diaspora and beyond to a not-so-secret enclave in the heart of North Texas. Cafe Americana, 403 E. Main St., Arling- ton. Tuesday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 1 a.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m. Monday, closed.
