14 April 13–19, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Nothing is worse than an overcooked (or undercooked, for that matter) chicken, and Hall’s achieves the perfect medium. Before going to Hall’s, we read a few pages of Yelp reviews. One of the chief com- plaints among the negative customer re- views was the lack of seasoning. It’s true. The birds at Hall’s are minimally seasoned. But that’s by design. Hall wants the chicken to speak for itself. In our experience, it did. Hall’s Honey Fried Chicken, 4105 W. Camp Wisdom Road. Monday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – midnight; Sunday, noon – 8 p.m. ▼ BRUNCH ALL THE PRESIDENT’S MIMOSAS CAFE 43 AT THE GEORGE W. BUSH PRESIDENTIAL CENTER IS A BRUNCH GEM. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS I t’s part of our mission around here to be on top of the food scene in Dallas, and brunch holds a special place in our hearts as one of the city’s defining meals. So, I felt foolish when a family member told me about his wonderful brunch at Cafe 43 and I responded, “Where’s that?” How was this guy, who doesn’t even live here, giv- ing me brunch tips? Cafe 43 is adjacent to the George W. Bush Presidential Center on SMU’s campus. Forty-three is a reference to former Presi- dent Bush’s service as the nation’s 43rd president. The restaurant opened a decade ago, and tickets to the center are not re- quired to dine here. You need only pay for parking across the street, which is about $7. Food plays a big role in foreign diplo- macy, and the menu at Cafe 43 has some personal touches from both the former pres- ident and former first lady Laura Bush. While searching for the history behind their favorite foods, we found a small trove of fa- vorite recipes in the digital exhibits, as well as a Dining and Diplomacy page that has menus from various state dinners. The seasonal menu at Cafe 43 is “local first, Texas second.” From burgers and en- chiladas to artichoke hummus and seared salmon salad, it’s Texas-forward rounded out with some lighter refined fare. If the weather is agreeable, ask for a spot on the terrace overlooking a restored native Texas prairie landscape. It’s shaded and quiet, pro- viding a surprisingly peaceful meal in the center of Dallas. Entering the restaurant you’ll see a paint- ing by President Bush, Christmas Cactus; he took up the art after leaving the White House. Other walls have original work. A six-pack of extra-large white glass globes along with natural light from large windows illuminate the spacious room. Polished wood floors are handsome. Cafe 43 serves lunch Monday through Friday, but has a special brunch menu avail- able on Saturday (it’s closed on Sunday). A few items are noted as favorites of the for- mer president and first lady, and there are also Mrs. Bush’s award-winning cowboy cookies, which are available at the hostess stand in small packs to take home or at the table with a scoop of vanilla. We started with a Texas mimosa served in a classic flute with Deep Eddy’s Ruby Red vodka, Champagne and just a touch of or- ange juice. Very nice and a little goes a long way here, which just makes the Bushes more endearing. One of the more popular menu items, based on how many plates of it were pass- ing through the dining room, is a smoked chicken salad ($16), served with two hearty slices of grilled rustic wheat bread (we contacted the restaurant to ask where this bread was sourced so we could buy loaves, but didn’t hear back). The chicken salad has big chunks of shredded white meat along with halved red grapes, pieces of pecans, a touch of tarragon and just enough mayo to hold it all together. Put a large scoop of this salad, with perhaps a bit of the green salad, on the toasted warm bread and enjoy. The Southern Benedict ($14) came highly recommended. Two buttermilk bis- cuits are topped with piquant and sweet pulled pork, poached eggs and andouille gravy. What could be a heavyweight dish is tempered by quantity; this is a nice meal, not a nap-inducing raid on your body. Two grilled asparagus stems add a touch of vege- tables. We topped off our meal with a scoop of the Bush’s favorite banana and pecan ice cream ($6), which came with adorable pe- can ears along with a fantastic cup of coffee that was quickly refilled any time it was be- low half full. You can also enjoy cowboy cookies with homemade ice cream. We’d love to get those with the banana pecan ice cream. Maybe next trip. Everything here is refined and in moder- ation, including the service, which is beyond friendly, doting yet not intrusive. Afterward, walk across the fountain area and grab yourself a “Dubya” pin for your blue jean jacket at the store, or perhaps a book. Then walk through the restored prai- rie landscape in front of the property. It makes for a lovely afternoon. The center is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. Reservations are recom- mended for the cafe. Cafe 43, 2943 SMU Blvd., Monday – Sat- urday, 11 a.m. – 2:30 p.m. ▼ BARBECUE BBQ ROADTRIP SHINER BREWERY NOW HAS A BARBECUE RESTAURANT. BY NICOLLE LANE S hiner is in the barbecue business. The longtime Texas brewer opened a restaurant, K. Spoetzl BBQ Co., on April 1. Guests can now enjoy barbecue with their iconic Shiner Bock brew. Spoetzl Brewery was founded in Shiner in 1909 by Czech and German immigrants. The town sits about 18 miles south of Inter- state 10 between San Antonio and Houston and has around 2,000 residents. After 114 years, the brewery has stayed close to its roots, still producing beer in Shiner while becoming one of the largest in- dependent craft brewers in the country, with beers available in all 50 states and Mex- ico. The name of the barbecue spot is in honor of Kosmos Spoetzl, founder of the brewery and its first brewmaster. Pitmaster Tommy Schuette has taken the reins at this new venture. Schuette was the former proprietor of the Shiner Barbeque Co., a now-closed independent barbecue spot in Shiner with no connection to the brewery. He brings more than 20 years of experience and offers a unique take on lo- cally sourced meats perfect for pairing with beer and cocktails. K. Spoetzl BBQ Co.’s menu offers tradi- tional barbecue items like brisket, chopped brisket, pulled pork, sausage, chicken and pork ribs. The menu also in- cludes salads, sides and a selection of loaded baked potatoes. If you can make it down to Shiner, you might find that prices are worth the trip. These are certainly small-town prices. A chopped brisket baked potato is $8, and a pulled pork sandwich combo (with chips and a drink) is $8.50. There’s even a sausage salad ($10), which we can’t wait to get our grubby hands on. See the full menu below. K. Spoetzl BBQ Co., 603 Texas Highway 95, Shiner. Daily, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. City of Ate from p13 Lauren Drewes Daniels Mimosas and brunch are available at Cafe 43.
