16 April 11 - 17, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Sushi for the People Kaiyo brings quality, casual vibes to Greenville Avenue. BY AAREN PRODY F rom the shell of where Teppo once stood, Kaiyo is the most re- cent addition to the trendy food scene on Lower Greenville. Chef Jimmy Park of nearby Shoyo opened it, so if you didn’t land one of their omakase reservations, Kaiyo will not disap- point. The restaurant is more upscale than your average sushi spot while being approachable and casual. You can order high-quality dishes while listening to a ‘90s hip-hop and R&B playlist. Huge props to whoever is on the aux. Outside, there are a handful of ta- bles primed for nice weather and good old- fashioned people-watching. Inside there are two separate bars: one for sushi and one for casual affairs. Along the right wall are half booth tables in front of a massive mural, which is a modern take on the famous painting, The Great Wave off Kanagawa. It’s a great place if you want to expand your palate for sushi or Japanese cuisine as a whole because they offer a ton of traditional Japanese dishes and more common plates, all served izakaya-style (small plates usually ordered in multiples, like tapas). It makes for a fun spot for date night or dinner with a group of friends. We always say the sushi bar is the best in the house because they won’t hesitate to en- courage you out of your comfort zone. The chefs are personable and welcoming, with a wealth of knowledge about the dishes and fish they serve. Don’t be shy ... you can give that California roll the night off for once. The menu has cool starters, hot starters, maki rolls, specialty rolls, salads, grilled items, deep-fried options, rice bowls, soup and nigiri/sashimi by the piece or set. There’s a ton to choose from, but some items that stood out to us were the baked green mussels, tuna pizza (recommended by chef Jimmy Park), washugyu beef tataki and uni (sea urchin) nigiri. One item on the menu we considered to be downright diabolical? Potato salad. It sits loud and proud among the other salad op- tions, with no subtext beneath to indicate a Japanese twist. Just everyone’s classic Southern favorite to pair with your pork gyoza. Although the oddball out often ends up tasting ridiculously good, chances are there’s a method to the madness. The alcohol selection is plentiful, with fun cocktails like the Big Poppa, plus wine, sake, beer and non-alcoholic options. We had a nice, wholesome cup of green tea with our dinner, but in case you have plans after- ward, Redbull also graces the N/A options. The chef started us off with the san ten mori ($9), which loosely translates to “three different appetizers.” Our trio had ika sansai, pickled octopus and vegetables; marinated, slow-cooked salmon; and nanban zuke, a very traditional dish from southern Japan. For the nanban zuke, white fish is fried, marinated in a vine- gar sauce and perfected by Kaiyo’s master sushi chef. Each portion is 1or 2 bites. The perfect amount to get the appetite flowing. For our main course(s), we tried the Kaiyo roll ($16), and oyster gyoza ($9), then finished the night with two pieces of gochu- jang salmon nigiri. The Kaiyo roll has cucumber, shiso and yamagobo (pickled burdock root) and is topped with torched umami butter, assorted fish, jalapeños and togarashi (seasoning blend) in a pool of sesame dressing. It has a very bold flavor that comes from the vine- gar-forward dressing. When it’s brought out, the umami butter on top is hand-melted with a blowtorch, which bestows a deep, smoky flavor. Inside the oyster dumplings are the most obvious, oysters, which are mixed with tofu, vegetables and octopus. They’re stuffed gen- erously, then pan-fried and steamed to per- fection. Oysters are commonly associated with the acquired “from the sea” taste, but you won’t have to worry about that with these. The mixture keeps things nice and light, even through they’re pan-fried. What stood out the most to us was the gochujang salmon nigiri or really any piece of raw fish they handed us. Salmon. Tuna. Snapper. It’s all extremely light, fresh and melts in your mouth. Three items (gyoza, the three-appetizer plate and Kaiyo roll) along with tea, was about $40 before tip. We recommend getting your hands on one of the nigiri or sashimi platters for the full experience. After seeing a pair next to us order it at the bar, we knew we’d need to come back for it. Kaiyo has only around 40 seats on the in- side, so it can fill up quickly depending on when you’re stopping by. We visited on a weekday and had no problems grabbing a ta- ble, but for the weekends, definitely make a reservation. Kaiyo Sushi, 2014 Greenville Ave. Tuesday – Thursday, 5–10 p.m.; Friday, 5–11 p.m.; Sat- urday, noon – 11 p.m.; Sunday, noon – 7 p.m.; closed Monday. ▼ OPENINGS AND CLOSINGS A FRESH HOT DOZEN HIGH-PROFILE ITALIAN AND AN OLDIE BUT GOODIE LEAD THE NEW RESTAURANTS IN DALLAS. BY CARLY MAY GRAVLEY AND LAUREN DREWES DANIELS S pring has sprung, and just as we’re starting to see wildflowers pop up along the highway, we’re also seeing an exciting new batch of restaurants open- ing in Dallas. New locales ranging from a fast-casual drink spot to high-end Italian from an acclaimed chef made March an ex- citing time to be a Dallas foodie. To help you cut through the noise, here’s our guide to some of the buzziest new res- taurants and bars that have opened in the Dallas area this past month and some that have closed. Hottest New Openings Daddy’s Chicken Shack 4717 Colleyville Blvd., Colleyville Alexa, play “Daddy’s Home” by Usher. This Colorado-based fast-casual spot serves chicken sandwiches with a consistent theme. Sandwiches with names like like the Big Daddy, the Spicy Daddy and the All American Daddy are all so equally compel- ling, you may need to call Maury Povich to help you find out who your daddy is. FANZO Sports Bar 5977 Preston Road, Frisco If your ideal social situation is all the sports everywhere all at once with a beer and snack, Frisco has a spot for you. FANZO Sports Bar is now open on Preston Road just north of Lebanon Road, with 5,000 square feet of sports bliss. The two-story space has plenty of seating and TVs for your crew. Starters here include Bang Bang Chicken, corn fritters, fried cauliflower and popcorn shrimp. Bigger plates on offer include burg- ers, fried chicken (with a tikka masala sauce) and seared salmon. We haven’t tried them yet, but it’s on our shortlist. Goldie’s 9850 Walnut Lane Goldie’s, an American restaurant and bar, comes to us from several local restaurant in- dustry veterans who want this place to be- come an East Dallas neighborhood favorite. Look for nostalgic dishes like steak, fish, burgers and pork chops as well as an impres- sive wine menu. Indochine Bistro 3211 Oak Lawn Ave. Located in the space formerly occupied by Green Papaya, Indochine Bistro serves tra- ditional East Asian dishes with a modern, French-infused twist. Sixties French pop music is the soundtrack at this spot, provid- ing a sophisticated ambiance that perfectly balances menu items like chili escargot and cocktails like the Vietnamese coffee martini. (Spoiler alert: This is not the only Green Pa- paya successor on this list.) Jack & Harry’s 6833 Snider Plaza Housed in Snider Plaza in a space built in 1945, Jack & Harry’s is a New Orleans chop- house and bar oozing old-school charm. From Dallas-based Vandalay Hospitality (East Hampton Sandwich Co., Drake’s, An- chor Sushi Bar), it aims to be a swanky yet casual spot for a weeknight steak or family meal. It’ll be what it wants to be, but ele- gance is present in droves with the warm nostalgia brought forth by the design and dishes like a French onion filet and oysters St. Claude. Kati Roll Company 1322 Elm St. Dallas is a hotspot for international spinoffs and Kati Roll Company falls in that bucket. This Indian street food spot by way of New York City opened downtown in early April. Kati rolls are skewered meats coddled in warm paratha flatbread and served with a lime-cilantro chutney made daily. Meats are halal, and mango lassis are made | CITY OF ATE | ▼ Dish Aaren Prody San ten mori is a tiny chef’s omakase. Kayla Enright Jack & Harry’s has old-world Dallas charm. >> p17
