11 April 10–16, 2025 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Creme de la Dallas James Beard finalists announced and Dallas already wins big. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS T he 2025 James Beard Award fi- nalists have been announced. Each year, the James Beard Foundation has an open call for restaurants for its prestigious cu- linary awards. A committee reviews and de- cides on semifinalists, which were announced in January. Winners from this round of finalists will be revealed on June 16. Dallas is currently in a 31-year dry spell when it comes to local chefs winning. The last Dallas award went to Dean Fearing in 1994. We’ve had more than 100 semifinalists since then, but none of them have taken home the prize. But, in a way, Dallas has already won with the announcement that Chad Houser has won the Humanitarian of the Year Award. Beyond that, we have some strong contend- ers for a winner. We’re feeling good! Humanitarian of the Year ➤ Chad Houser Wow. We can’t clap loud enough for this. Through his downtown Dallas restaurant Cafe Momentum, Chad Houser has taken on one of the most complicated and difficult is- sues every city faces and has dedicated his life and work to making a difference in young adults’ lives through a proven and sustainable method. The James Beard Foundation notes Houser’s mission to “transform young lives by equipping teens aged 15-19 with life skills, education, and employment opportunities at an award-winning restaurant and culinary training facility.” Houser’s 10-year-old non- profit has opened restaurants beyond Dallas in Atlanta and Pittsburgh, with another open- ing in Denver next year. The mission is to have 10 locations by 2035. Emerging Chef ➤ RJ Yoakum at Georgie After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in New York, Yoakum trained at the esteemed French Laundry in Napa Val- ley and Angler in San Francisco, along with stops in Chicago, France, Italy and London. Now he’s made a home in Dallas and we’re all better for it. He’s energized the restau- rant scene, bringing panache and swank to Georgie on Knox-Henderson. Best New Restaurant ➤ Mabo This Preston Center kappo-style yakitori is helmed by Tokyo native Masayuki “Masa” Otaka, who spent almost three decades at Teppo. Here, bird is the word; think of it as a chicken omakase. Every part of the fowl is grilled over binchotan coals. There are two seatings a night at the eight-seat chef’s table, five nights a week. Dinner runs about $200 for a 12-course meal, not including tax, tip or drinks. Best New Bar ➤ Bar Colette The small cocktail den, Bar Colette in the West Village, is a finalist for Best New Bar. Ruben Rolon, the Michelin-recognized bar director, is driving an ever-evolving, meticu- lously curated cocktail program in a chic and elegant space. Signature cocktails in- clude the Parfait, with lavender-infused Grey Goose, Oloroso and spiced red wine with pears and yogurt. Best Chef Texas ➤ Regino Rojas of Purepecha This was Rojas’ sixth time as a semifinalist, and the culinary scene in Dallas just got a lit- tle brighter with this announcement that he is a finalist. Rojas ushered in a new wave of appreciation for tacos and the vast and beau- tiful culture behind them. If you haven’t been to his chef’s tasting room, Purepecha, now is a great time to get those reservations. Outstanding Bakery ➤ Starship Bagel Oren Salomon is on a bagel mission. The Brooklyn-born Polish Jew has clearly mas- tered the craft of bagels in just a few short years. He opened his first store in Lewisville in 2021 and has swept up awards, including several at Bagel Fest in New York, such as best bagel (2023), schmear of the year (2024) and best bagel runner-up (2024). ▼ BEST OF DALLAS STUFFED AND WRAPPED THE BEST BURRITOS IN BIG D. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS L ast Wednesday is National Burrito Day, per the Lord. Dallas has plenty of places to make your refried bean, cheese and barbacoa dreams come true. Fortunately, we’ve been lucky enough to vet many of them fully, and below are some of our favorites: El Paisa Cocina Mexicana Multiple Locations El Paisa Cocina Mexicana has come a long way since 1998. Once a taco cart, the family empire has grown to 10 locations serving gi- ant breakfast burritos made with 10-inch ($5.99) or 12-inch ($6.99) flour tortillas loaded with scrambled eggs, refried beans, gooey cheese and a protein: pick between bacon, sausage, chorizo, potatoes, ham, steak or cactus. Fajita is available for a dollar more. The secret is to customize your order with maximum fillings. These two-hand burritos are enough to feed two or hold you over all day. — Desiree Gutierrez Los Primos Tacos and More 5012 Sharp St. We saluted Los Primos’ breakfast burrito in our 2024 Best of Dallas issue; their super stuffed egg and meat monster is “the ulti- mate bang-for-your-buck breakfast” for less than seven bucks. In this economy? Wow. Good news: you can get your fill here on a budget any time of the day. Get a simple bur- rito with meat, rice and beans starting at just $1.99 or the burrito mixto with two meats $11.69. Find this spot in West Dallas just off Irving Boulevard near Westmoreland. Cris and John’s 5555 Preston Oak Road What happens when a Mexican-American falls in love with a Vietnamese-American? Phorritos. The owners of this East Dallas gem blend spices and cooking techniques they each grew up with. The result is best demonstrated in their platters loaded with fusions, like Viet Curry Taquitos and Birria Bao. But the pho burritos made with rice noodles, bean sprouts, herbs and jalapenos, wrapped in a tortilla, are a must. Montes Shell Station 19004 Midway Road This burrito spot in a Shell station is one of our favorite finds of 2022. We dined on sev- eral burritos, including a breakfast burrito, fajita and barbacoa, all for less than $20. Montes started as a full-service restaurant in Whitney, but this satellite spot has been around for about five years now. All the bur- ritos — from breakfast to dinner — come on house-made tortillas and are priced to move. La Victoria 1605 Haskell Ave. The 12-inch Super at La Victoria in Old East Dallas is everything you want in a burrito: hot, grilled, heavy with picadillo (you can also get chicken or steak), beans, pico, cheese and sour cream. It’s legit and not at all snobby, like a hug from your abuela. This spot has been churning out Tex-Mex staples for more than 20 years, serving breakfast and lunch (note: they’re open from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.). – Chris Wolfgang Salsa Limon Multiple Locations Salsa Limon in downtown is one of our fa- vorite lunch spots. We recently discovered the $2 bean and cheese burrito under the “best deals” section of the menu, which we pair with the $7 sopa de tortilla, which is an amazing little bowl of spicy beef broth, avo- cado and refried beans (yes, they put refried beans in the soup, which was a curious choice but now a favorite hack). If you’re looking for something heavier, get the El Campeon Burrito for $12.20, made with bar- bacoa and toasted on the griddle for a warm, crispy exterior. And if you’re in downtown and order it to-go, maybe one of the cute lit- tle robots will deliver it. Kathy Tran At Cafe Momentum, Chef Aaron Collins (right) discusses a dish with interns. | CITY OF ATE | ▼ Dish >> p12 Alison McLean Del Sur Tacos burrito and guacamole.
