14 March 30–april 5, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Cardamom and Spice Richardson gets a stunning Yemeni coffee house. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS A new coffee shop opened late last year in Richardson, and compared with the many ca- fes that dot North Texas, Arwa Yemeni Coffee is a breath of fresh cardamom-scented Arab air. Susan Shihab and Nora Soofi are sisters- in-law who yearned for a local spot where people could gather to taste the flavors of their homeland, Yemen. “This was not something that we came up within a day or a month or a year,” Soofi says. “It’s been in the talks for years. Every- thing you see in Arwa was very well thought out and purposeful. It’s not just there be- cause we wanted it to be there, it’s there be- cause it has meaning, and it has relevance.” Arwa sits toward the back of a basic brown shopping center at the corner of Greenville Avenue and Centennial Boulevard. The space feels fresh and immaculate, bathed in warm tones with sandy brown and yellow accents. As Soofi said, everything in the space has a purpose, and it’s these details that make this shop so remarkable. Starting with the name, which honors the 11th- and 12th-century queen of Yemen, Arwa. During her reign, she founded several mosques, the most famous being Queen Arwa Mosque. Here, inside the cafe, large custom-made backlit arches on the wall are styled after the mosque. The floor tiles are in the shape of honey- combs, a tribute to traditional Yemen sidr honey. In the back of the cafe is a jalsa, a tra- ditional communal seating area. Wicker light fixtures look like madhallas, the cus- tomary hats worn by farmers in Yemen. Mo- saic wall art above the communal seating area is also significant. “If you look at the Yemeni buildings that are depicted in the mosaic wall art, those are Yemen’s famous stones. Whether they were built thousands of years ago or a year ago, these buildings all embody the same colors and natural tones. Those muted earthy tones are beautiful,” Soofi says. The food and drinks are also steeped in the traditional flavors and spices of Yemen. Coffee beans are imported from Yemen and roasted in-house. Signature drinks include a jubani made with coffee and husks (cascara), cardamom, ginger and cinnamon ($4). The Adeni tea is made with premium black tea, milk, sugar and an Arwa spice blend ($5). While there are La Casita Bakeshop pas- tries in the display case, there’s also a collec- tion of sweets and snacks made in a traditional Yemen bakery in the U.S. Some items are made in-house. The honeycomb bread is popular here. Soft pillowy mounds of bread are stuffed with cream cheese and sprinkled with ses- ame seeds and brush with honey. But, the harissa squares along with the spiced coffee was unlike anything I’d had at any other coffee shop. Two chocolate-cov- ered dates stuffed with pistachios were equally alluring. The only downside is that, because of the pleasant space, wonderful coffee and snacks, Arwa is often crowded. If you’re lucky to get a seat inside, soak it up, but if not, go out the back door to the courtyard with plenty of seating and heaters for when it’s chilly. Arwa Yemeni Coffee, 888 S. Greenville Ave., Richardson. Sunday – Thursday, 10 a.m. – 8 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. – 10 p.m. ▼ FIRST LOOK CHEF MOVES LUKE ROGERS TAKES THE HELM AT BECKLEY 1115 IN OAK CLIFF. BY ALEX GONZALEZ A n Oak Cliff neighborhood favorite is getting a big transformation. Earlier this month, Beckley 1115 announced via social media that chef Luke Rogers, for- merly of Savor and Cathedral, has purchased a majority share of the restaurant from chef Sharon Van Meter. Rogers will now work as Beckley 1115’s executive chef alongside Van Meter as a partner. Rogers’ journey at Beckley 1115 began last summer, when he was temporarily working for Van Meter while waiting for Cathedral, an Italian restaurant in Plano, to open. After parting ways with Cathedral earlier this year, a return to Beckley 1115 was an obvious decision for Rogers, and the opportunity came to him right on time. “When [Van Meter] called me and said, ‘Hey, do you wanna buy Beckley?’ my heart jumped, and I said, ‘Yes,’ immediately,” Rog- ers says. Rogers wants Beckley 1115 to maintain the vibe of a neighborhood spot, but his pri- ority is to keep the menu seasonal. “That’s a big thing for us,” Rogers says, “The menu needs to be seasonal. It needs to change frequently so that there’s always something new and exciting for our diners. And also, it’s great for us from a creativity standpoint.” We visited Beckley 1115 just days after Rogers took the helm. We started with the terra e mare trio (surf and turf, $22), a plate of chips and crostinis along with shrimp ceviche, tuna crudo, and beef tartare. Perhaps the highlight of the appetizers was a duck confit tostada ($22). Here a green, puffed tostada is topped with duck confit, pico de gallo and a lemon sriracha aioli, which gives it just the right sweet, spicy kick. This particular starter pairs well with a glass of Post Malone’s Maison No. 9 rosé ($14). For mains, we tried lobster mac and cheese, served with cavatappi pasta; the cork- screw design carries loads of sharp and white cheddar cheeses. Chunks of Maine lobster are mixed in, and the dish is topped with sea- soned breadcrumbs, giving it a crisp texture. A must-try is the roasted half chicken with a drizzle of a lemon peppercorn sauce, which sit atop grilled asparagus and whipped corn potatoes. The chicken is flavorful, but per- haps the most adventurous part of this plate is the whipped corn potatoes, a golden pile of soft, pillowy goodness. For dessert, we had the creme brulee, which comes topped with fresh blueberries, strawberries and whipped cream. For Rogers, this is just the beginning of a new era. He wants to maintain the spot’s eclectic vibe, while experimenting in the art-forward neighborhood and appealing to the fine-dining crowd. “I like that I’m able to put things on the menu that I wouldn’t be able to put on my menu in another suburb,” says Rogers. “But here, customers will say, ‘Hey, let me try that dish.’ I’ve always tried to have the kindest kitchens possible with people who have al- ways been hospitable and have that atmo- sphere throughout our restaurants. That’s what I’m hoping will continue.” Beckley 1115. 1115 N. Beckley Ave. Tuesday and Wednesday, 3–9 p.m.; Thursday – Satur- day, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. Lauren Drewes Daniels The interior of Arwa is influenced by the distinctive styles and patterns of Yemen. | CITY OF ATE | ▼ Dish
