16 February 23-March 1, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Leveling the Drinking Field Texas wineries can deliver wine, but breweries can’t deliver beer. Legislation has been introduced that looks to change that. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS L aws regulating the Texas craft beer industry are back in the mix at the Texas Legislature. Once again, craft brewers are trying to update some archaic practices — laws so old and stodgy they wear knicker- bockers and use words like drats. Texas was well into the 21st century (2019) before it allowed craft breweries to sell beer to go, the last state in the country to do so. This was after a long battle to allow breweries to pour pints to sell in their tap rooms, which happened in 2013. Now, here in 2023, another seemingly be- nign idea is on offer, something that makes us pause with our IPA halfway to our lips and say, “Wait, we can’t do that already? Why not?” No, we can’t. Specifically, Texas brewer- ies cannot ship beer to people. State Sen. Pete Flores, Republican from Pleasanton, and state Rep. Shelby Slawson, Republican from Stephenville, filed com- panion “Beer to You” bills that would allow legal home delivery of craft beer. The Texas Craft Brewers Guild’s political action committee, CraftPAC, is throwing its full frothy weight behind the proposed mea- sures. “In an era where consumers can have vir- tually anything delivered to them with a swipe of a finger, convenience is paramount in the retail market and your license type shouldn’t be the barrier between your prod- uct and the customers that want it,” Jon Lamb, owner of Red Horn Coffee House and Brewing Co. and government affairs chair for the Texas Craft Brewers Guild, said in a statement. CraftPAC is quick to present Exhibit A: the Texas wine industry. Texans of legal drinking age can have wine delivered from Texas wineries, but not beer from breweries. If that makes you want to throw a beer in someone’s face, just hold your lagers. Let’s sift through some data first. Texas ranks second in direct wine sales volume with more than 600,000 cases shipped annually, allowing the local wine in- dustry to grow from around 40 wineries in 2005 to more than 400 now, according to a news release from the Texas Craft Brewers Guild. Texas is now the fifth-largest state for wine production in the country, with a $20 billion economic impact. CraftPAC proposes that if wineries, re- tailers and third-party delivery apps can ship or deliver to consumers while comply- ing with state laws and customer age verifi- cation, the craft beer industry can as well. Michael Peticolas of Peticolas Brewing supports delivery; in fact, at one time he re- ceived regular deliveries. “I used to be in a beer-of-the-month club, and every month I got this 12-pack of beers from Michigan or wherever. It’s a niche. Just like a winery, when you go to Santa Rosa and sign up for a wine club and get wine all year,” Peticolas says. As for Texas, Peticolas says, “People want our beer, we know that. I guarantee we’d be getting lots of calls and requests.” Peticolas, who logged many hours push- ing for legislation for craft brewing a decade ago, points out that not being on a level play- ing field has long been a problem for Texas brewers. “This is what brewers have been hem- ming and hawing about: We just don’t have rights that others in the alcohol business do. And delivery is a big one. It seems like it would be quite a boon for the state,” he says. So, why is a purportedly business- friendly state so slow to adopt common sense laws for the craft beer industry? [Big sigh] “That’s a seminar right there,” Peticolas says. “What I really think the an- swer is, the distribution lobby. And I don’t really even like to say that, but the fact of the matter is the guys who don’t want this to pass are those who call the punches for the most part.” While he’s skeptical the delivery legisla- tion will pass this session, he believes even- tually it will. “It’ll happen. Because at some point peo- ple want what they want,” Peticolas says. CraftPAC hopes to get “rational and uni- form shipping and delivery laws” and aims to allow Texas breweries and brewpubs to deliver beer directly to consumers at their homes, use third-party delivery services and ship beer directly to consumers across the state. The Texas craft brewing industry pro- vides more than 30,000 jobs and has a $4.9 billion economic impact in the state. Texas ranks 47th in breweries per capita, and its craft beer industry ranks 41st in economic impact per capita. ▼ COFFEE COFFEE WORSHIPPERS REJOICE ASCENSION TO OPEN NEW LOCATION IN RESTORED WHITE ROCK CHAPEL. BY NICOLLE LANE T he White Rock community can soon find sanctuary at the newest outpost of Ascension Coffee, set to open on Saturday, Feb. 18, at 9353 Garland Road. The coffee shop has seven locations throughout North Texas, with this historic location being the most unusual: the 2,283-square-foot former White Rock Community Chapel was saved by resi- dents of the neighborhood and fully re- stored. Designed by Foxcroft Studio, the space was turned into a communal café showcas- ing vaulted and beamed ceilings, large, arched windows and ornate chandeliers — all reminiscent of the building’s past. Inside the coffee shop, an open-con- cept bar and coffee counter lines one side, with pew-like booth seating throughout. Ascension White Rock has outdoor seat- ing with covered umbrellas, fire pits and cushioned couches, all surrounded by lush landscaping. Founded in 2012, Ascension reports it serves only the top 3% of coffee in the world based on a rigorous review process that in- cludes social, fair-trade and environmental considerations. The company also priori- tizes and highlights coffee beans sourced from women-led farms. In 2021, Ascension was voted the best lo- cal coffee roaster by Observer readers. Aside from the coffee, the menu includes wine and a chef-inspired sampling of bites. Director of culinary and executive chef, Ja- son Connelly, who was previously the exec- utive chef at the Adolphus Hotel, has created a menu including Brekky and Craft Sammies, all-day breakfast options, bagels, pastries and more. Standout dishes include fried chicken and waffles, original avocado toast and espresso ice cream sammie. Drinks include a variety of cocktails, from a Levitate Espresso Martini to an AC Cortodo flight and a Cold Fashioned and Doki flights. Typically a popular brunch destination, Ascension has expanded its operating hours to welcome the golden hour along with an all-day brunch menu. Craft cocktails, wine and beer specials are served from 3 p.m. to closing every Wednesday through Saturday. On opening day, Feb. 18, Ascension will serve free drip coffee with a purchase. Ascension White Rock, 9353 Garland Road. Sunday – Tuesday, 6:30 a.m. – 6 p.m.; Wednesday – Saturday, 6:30 a.m. – 9 p.m. ROOMS WITH VIEWS DALLAS HAS NO SHORTAGE OF STUNNING DINING ROOMS. HERE IS A LOOK AT 12 OF OUR FAVORITES. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS F irst, a qualifier: this is not a list of the fanciest spots in Dallas, but rather pretty spaces where you can — for a moment — forget the noise, traffic Lauren Drewes Daniels Brewer Michael Peticolas is fighting to allow breweries to deliver. | CITY OF ATE | ▼ Dish >> p18
