12 February 19 - 25, 2026 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents and fries for under $15 before tip. Many of the carhops have worked there for decades, and even though the restaurant doesn’t ad- vertise it, it does serve ice-cold beer. While some are too busy arguing about what’s “better,” the rest of us are appreciating this longstanding local gem and its thick milk- shakes. Jimmy’s Food Store (1966) 4901 Bryan St. Everyone knows Jimmy’s Food Store sells some of the best sandwiches in Dallas. The meatball sub is particularly noteworthy, and the muffuletta, in a close tie with the former, is just as popular. The Italian bodega-style grocery and takeaway spot has been situated on the corner of Bryan Street and North Fitzhugh Avenue since 1966. The DiCarlo family has been running it for generations, even going as far as to resurrect the spot af- ter it suffered from a fire in 2004. To this day, it’s a weekly ritual for most who stop by, and newcomers instantly fall in love with this East Dallas gem. S&D Oyster Company (1976) 2701 McKinney Ave. S&D Oyster Company has been serving Gulf-style seafood at its one-and-only loca- tion since 1976. Uptown has reveled in its New Orleans-esque courtyard for $2 oys- ters on the half-shell during happy hour, shrimp done in a nearly infinite number of ways and properly made gumbo. Most din- ers have been coming here for over 20 years, while others have remained loyal for its entire 40-plus-year tenancy on McKin- ney Avenue. Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano (1977) 4912 Cole Ave. Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano claims it’s a go- to for authentic Mexico City fare, but noth- ing screams Tex-Mex more than serving a small block of butter with chips and salsa and tableside cheese roll-ups. Since 1977, it has been a staple for its unique take on Mexican cuisine and was our Reader’s Choice for Best Mexican Restaurant in Dal- las for 2025. No matter the day, crowds are flowing in eager for its moody dining room with lingering scents from the cigar lounge next door. ▼ BUSINESS THE DINNER TAX YOUR FAVORITES RESTAURANTS ARE STRUGGLING AS TAKEOUT SUPPLIES, UTENSILS, BEER AND WINE ARE ALL TAKING A HIT FROM TARIFFS. BY JEFF SIEGEL E very time Chad Dolezal hears another threat from President Donald Trump about tariffs — and it seems like there’s a new one every couple of days — all he can do is hope it is nothing more than the usual rhetoric. “I just kind of hope, ‘Please don’t do it,’” says Dolezal, the co-owner of Cenzo’s Pizza and Deli in Oak Cliff’s Bishop Arts, who has been busying remaking his wine and beer list as prices go up and products disappear thanks to the tariffs. “We really, really, really need some consistency in our prices, and all the tariff talk does the opposite.” In just the last couple of weeks, Trump has threatened tariffs against a handful of European countries over his attempt to an- nex Greenland; France, because its presi- dent refused to join his new Board of Peace initiative; and countries that sell oil to Cuba, including Mexico. ‘Unpredictable Is the New Normal’ It’s no wonder Dallas restaurateurs con- sider tariffs one of the biggest problems over the past year. According to a Touch- Bistro study that begins with the statement “Unpredictable is the new normal,” 82% of U.S. restaurant operators say that tariffs and trade policies “directly contributed to their restaurant’s inventory challenges” last year. Additionally, the Texas Restaurant Asso- ciation asked owners whether costs have increased due to tariffs. Only 10% re- sponded that none of their costs are af- fected by tariffs. Fifty-eight percent said that food and beverage costs were up be- cause of tariffs, and 46% responded that utensils and to-go items cost more because of tariffs. This is compounded with other struggles that restaurants have been facing in the past few years, including skyrocketing rents, la- bor shortages and consumers cutting back on eating out. A Tariff Trifecta The impact of tariffs comes at a particularly bad time for several reasons. First, many foreign producers and their importers absorbed some of the initial tar- iff costs, including 15% for most EU alco- hol products and 25% for Mexican beer and spirits, hoping tariffs would be short- lived. But when the tariffs were more than a fleeting threat, some raised prices while others stopped exporting to the U.S. Dolezal says those increases forced him to add $1 to the price of a bottle of Peroni, about the cost of the tariff. Second, the value of the U.S. dollar has plummeted to a four-year low, making im- ports that much more expensive. Third, Trump imposed tariffs of as much as 50% on aluminum; hence, canned beer has been clobbered, since aluminum is its highest cost. Dolezal says wholesale prices for some canned beers have gone up so much that he’d have to charge $11 a can, and who would pay that – even if he felt OK ask- ing that much? “It’s certainly not getting any easier,” says Stephen Roussos, PhD, the co-founder and co-owner of R&R Selections, a Dallas- area importer that specializes in Greek wine and works with a variety of North Texas restaurants. “I’ve spent a lot of time making a lot of calls and I’ve spent a lot of time worrying.” Luckily for him and some of his restau- rant customers, Greek products haven’t been affected by many of the changes since the initial round of tariffs last year. Though he notes that he still has to pay attention to threats, those alone can rattle markets. Quiet Hope On the other hand, many we spoke to for this article say many in the industry are lost in the dark, scrambling from day to day to find wine, beer, and spirits that fit their menu, offer decent quality, and that their customers can afford. It’s one thing for a steakhouse to charge $300 for a bottle of wine; it’s another for a pizza or sandwich spot to charge $11 for a can of beer. But it’s also difficult to get an exact han- dle on the full impact of tariffs; thanks to the nature of the Trump Administration, the is- sue has become so politicized that restau- rants don’t want to be forced to pick a side. Several declined to be interviewed for this article for that reason. So, for the time being, it’s watch and wait — and keep hoping against hope that the tar- iffs don’t cause even worse problems. Alison McLean A lot of beer and wine cost more because of tariffs, making dinner out a tougher sale. City of Ate from p11
