13 February 1 - 7, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Buon Appetito! Enzo’s Deli & Imports brings sandwiches and Italian goodies to Plano. BY HANK VAUGHN I f you feel like going to Jimmy’s for a sandwich, pasta, wine or a jar of mari- nated bell peppers but live way out there in Farthest North Dallas or Plano, you’re in luck. Enzo’s Deli & Imports opened last December near Pres- ton and Spring Creek, and while it’s no- where near as large as Jimmy’s, with its limited shelf space for those bottled Italian goodies and a single deli case, it’ll do in a pinch. Enzo’s is the creation of Michael Martin, who also owns the Corner Wines & Wine Bar. It’s conveniently enough attached to the new deli, sharing space and tables. Shop for a bottle of Chianti or two while you wait for your sandwich to be created. All the sandwich options (or “sangwi- chez” in local parlance) available are based on recipes from Southern Italy, a region where Martin spent time as a youth, giving rise to such fare as the amalfitana, the sor- rentina and the calabrese. There is also a sandwich called the Toscano, which is tech- nically Central Italy, not Southern, but let’s not get all pedantic about geography — there are sandwiches to eat. We went to the counter and ordered an amalfitana and a meatball sandwich, one cold, one hot. While we waited for them to be prepared, we browsed through the ad- mittedly limited grocery selections, but we’re happy to have the option at all. It beats the one- or two-shelf Italian section (if that) you find in Kroger’s international aisle at least. There was giardiniera, bal- samic vinegar, olive oil, an ample olive se- lection, marinated artichoke hearts and capers, just to name a few of the items on the shelf. The refrigerator section has breads, fresh pastas such as bucatini and rigatoni from chef Salvatore Gisellu of Urban Crust, different varieties of sugos and to- mato sauces, ravioli and even some balls of pizza dough like the kind we never pass up purchasing when we’re at Jimmy’s. Again, not a huge selection, but it’ll get the job done. The deli section has several traditional meats such as capocollo, guanciale, speck and prosciutto, along with some that are a bit more difficult to find like mortadella pis- tachio or nduja salame. When the sandwiches were ready, we took them next door to the wine store that shares the space with Enzo’s and has tables if you choose to eat in rather than to go. It looked to be a pretty decent selection of wines from the world over, not simply Italy, and there’s a wine bar for those who wish to sample by the glass. The amalfitana was served on house cia- batta, with prosciutto, burrata, sun-dried to- matoes, arugula, EVOO and balsamic vinegar and set us back $11.99. It was about 8-inches long sliced in half and served in butcher paper. The bread was chewy with a crispy outer crust, and the ingredients worked together in a nice melody, though the generous amount of dried tomatoes pro- duced a slight sweetness that we wish had been toned down a bit. Enzo’s meatball sandwich went for $10 and consisted of house-made meatballs and homemade marinara topped with melted mozzarella cheese, all served on a fresh bread roll that was slightly toasted. The marinara was rich and flavorful with some character, and there are tubs of it for sale in their fridge section. These sandwiches are never pretty to look at or easy to eat, but that’s part of the fun. We’d like to try the sausage and peppers sandwich, along with some cannoli, but that’s what return trips are for. Enzo’s will never really be able to compete with Jimmy’s, which has the Italian boutique shop thing down to a tee, but for those who live way out in the northern hinterlands, it is definitely a welcome alternative. Enzo’s Deli & Imports, 4017 Preston Road, No. 535, Plano. Monday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 7 p.m.; closed Sundays. ▼ BEER THINK DRINK UT ARLINGTON TEAMS UP WITH LAKEWOOD BREWING TO TEACH THE SCIENCE OF BEER. BY CARLY MAY GRAVLEY B eer has always been a stereotypical trademark of the college experience, but it’s traditionally been kept out of the classrooms. The University of Texas at Arlington, in collaboration with Lakewood Brewing Company in Garland, is about to flip that script with its new certification program, Brewing and Fermentation Sci- ence, proving there’s no better pairing for a craft beer than microbiology. The program is headed by Dr. Dylan Parks, an assistant professor of instruction in biology and former lab technician at Lakewood Brewing Company, who feels for- tunate to be in a line of work that combines so many of his passions. “This program is kind of an amalgama- tion of everything that I love between sci- ence, beer and teaching,” says Parks. Over the course of four classes (The Sci- ence of Brewing, Fermentation Science, Brewing Lab Sensory Evaluation and Prod- uct Design) and a 16-hour internship, stu- dents will learn the science behind brewing from the ground up and how the quality of a beer can be determined at a microscopic level. When it comes to brewing beer, some bacteria help the fermentation process and enhance the taste, but other bacteria can spoil a whole batch. By the end of this pro- gram, students will be able to tell the differ- ence and apply that knowledge to their own brewing process. “The whole picture of the program is to make sure students understand the science behind the beer,” says Parks. “How it works on an industrial scale and how you would fit in getting a job in this type of environ- ment.” In addition to the science at the core of the program, there will be a creative element as well, as students will be able to design their own beer in a computer program. Parks hopes to eventually help students re- alize their ideas in the real world, whether by partnering with commercial breweries or through new additions to the university’s campus. “Right now, UTA is actually renovating the life science building, and the plan is to put in a fermentation lab,” he says. “Once that’s complete, students probably will be brewing their beer onsite.” A 16-hour internship will also be re- quired to complete the program. Lakewood Brewing Company is already on board to participate. | CITY OF ATE | ▼ Dish Hank Vaughn The amalfitana is one of the many freshly made sandwich options available at Enzo’s Deli & Imports, which recently opened in Plano. >> p14 www.dallasobserver.com/signup go to WEEKLY EMAIL D SIGN UP FOR OUR WEEKLY EMAIL LIST for feature stories, movie reviews, calendar picks and more!