14 January 26–February 1, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents ▼ EAT THIS THAT SMOKY GRIND BIG AL’S HAS SERVED UP SOLID BARBECUE FOR 49 YEARS AND COUNTING. BY CHRIS WOLFGANG “I t’s all about the grind.” So says Lauran Weiner, owner of Big Al’s Smokehouse BBQ in Dallas, And though we’re talking about the simple salt and pepper rub that Big Al’s uses on its brisket, we could just as easily be reflecting on the work that Weiner and her team do to keep her family’s barbecue churning along as they approach 50 years in business. Weiner’s father was Al Plaskoff, a meat salesman at Farmer’s Meat Market in down- town Dallas in the ‘70s. He sold beef and pork to the big barbecue restaurants of the day. In 1973, Plaskoff had a chance to buy Loren Brown’s BBQ on Inwood Road. Brown was one of Plaskoff’s customers, and according to Wiener, was concerned that the opening of DFW Airport and the forthcom- ing Wright Amendment restricting flights from nearby Love Field would cripple his business. Instead of taking an order for the week’s meat, Plaskoff made an offer the buy the restaurant. “My dad asked him how much he wanted for the restaurant and was down here with a check that afternoon,” Weiner told the Ob- server. In 2008, Paskoff moved Big Al’s up the street to the current location, 3317 Inwood Road. After Weiner and her family moved back to Dallas, she started helping in the res- taurant in 2013. Originally on the catering side, she eventually assumed more responsibility as her dad got older. Plaskoff passed away in 2018, and Weiner took over the business. “I feel a responsibility to this place,” Weiner said. “Between our customers and the people that work here, it really is a family.” Weiner’s commitment to keep Big Al’s quality at a high level starts with the proteins, of course. On a recent visit, two of us each or- dered our own two-meat plate ($16), one with brisket and a jalapeño cheese sausage, the other with turkey breast and pulled pork. Our lean slices of brisket were delightfully tender, if sliced a touch on the thin side. Big Al’s brisket doesn’t have that big pepper bark like a lot of craft barbecue spots, but that’s by design. “I can only eat about two bites of that style,” Weiner said. “Ours has a little fat left, but just some salt and pepper and smoked with wood.” The sausage (sourced from Rudolph’s in Dallas) had the appropriate snap and spice combo, and we were pleased to see turkey breast on the menu. Big Al’s version is suc- culent and smoky and would make a killer sandwich (which you can get for just nine bucks). Pulled pork comes pre-sauced, which might make the purists mad, but it’s delectable nonetheless. Sides are all made in-house, with clear at- tention to detail. Deviled eggs taste like your grandmother’s backyard picnic, and the bar- becue beans have the kind of flavor that only hours of simmering can produce. The maca- roni and cheese is kicked up with bits of dried onion, and the okra is fried to order and served up a perfect golden brown. Inside, Big Al’s has the quintessential barbecue decor: red walls, wood tables and lots of memorabilia on the walls, including photos of Big Al, his family and the patrons who have kept the lights on for almost 50 years. Since taking over for her father, Weiner has put in a lot of work behind the scenes, improving recordkeeping and order- ing while still trying to keep the restaurant much the way her father ran it. That means having enough food to accommodate every- one who comes in, open to close. “Being a business owner is not what I ex- pected,” Weiner said. Big Al’s may not be an Instagram-worthy destination like the newer generation of bar- becue big names, but Weiner gladly holds her food up next to anyone’s. And coming out of the pandemic, Weiner tells us that Big Al’s had its best year ever in sales. So, yeah, the hard work of running a restaurant can be a grind, but for Weiner, there’s a payoff in turning out barbecue that she and her staff are proud of. “I think our food is as good as it’s ever been, and knock on wood, we’re still here every day,” she said. Big Al’s Smokehouse BBQ, 3317 Inwood Road. Monday – Saturday, 10:30 a.m. – 8 p.m.; closed Sunday. Chris Wolfgang Sausage, brisket, fried okra and bake beans at Big Al’s Smokehouse BBQ. City of Ate from p12 o 10250 Shady Trail • 214.358.5511 • babydolls.com Come watch all the football action with us! THE LEGEND LIVES ON® THE LEGEND LIVES ON® check out our new kitchen daily buffet Mon-fri 11aM-2PM stadiuM buffet Monday-friday 4PM-10PM Sat 11aM-10pM • Sun 12pM-10pM
