11 January 16 - 22, 2025 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents The almond croissant was top-notch: fresh, full of almond cream and topped with a plethora of slivered almonds. Nor did the pistachio croffin disappoint; the pistachio cream inside was not overly sweet and the hybrid shape created a nice lamination. The high point, however, was the straw- berry cream croissant. Oh, my, was it good. It was full of whipped cream with a hint of strawberry flavor that was extremely light and fresh. The croissant was flaky and not dry, topped with a dollop of that same cream and a slice of strawberry. It reminded me of the cream puffs at the county fair back in the day, something that isn’t usually obtainable in a pastry that has been sitting (at best) be- hind a counter for hours. It was as if it had been created especially for us on demand at that moment. And maybe it had. Easily one of the top eats so far this year. All of this, and the prices are pretty good, too. The croffin was $4.50 and the stuffed croissants $5. Pan Pa’ Vos means “bread for you.” Go get your bread. 3855 Frankford Road, No. 100. Daily, 6 a.m. – 8 p.m. ▼ ANNIVERSARY STAYING POWER TEI TEI ROBATA BAR CELEBRATES 25 YEARS ON HENDERSON. BY AAREN PRODY T ei Tei Robata Bar has seen its way through more than two decades of Dallas’ churn-and-burn dining scene. Now that the picture is shifting with the openings of timeless neighborhood restau- rants and all-day cafes, we hope to see res- taurants linger for a little longer. But Tei Tei? It’s been here all along. The restaurant’s history is a quarter-cen- tury long, so a little recap is in order. And you can’t talk about the history without starting with six-time James Beard semifinalist chef Teiichi Sakurai. 1995: Sakurai opens Teppo, a Japanese restaurant specializing in yakitori charcoal- grilled chicken skewers. At the time, it was a pivotal opening in the Dallas dining scene. It served two seatings each night on Lower Greenville for 27 years before closing in 2022. 1998: Sakurai, still hungry to cook yaki- tori, opens Tei Tei Robata Bar and appoints Katsutoshi Sakamoto as executive chef. When the restaurant opened, they were the first to bring “Washu beef on the rock” from Japan to Dallas. 2008: Sakurai opens Tei-An. Sakamoto and his crew take over “Teiichi’s little res- taurant” (what Tei Tei means in Japanese). The chefs say that when you’re at Tei Tei, you’re almost in Japan. “A lot of items on the menu may seem un- usual, unique, maybe even just weird. It may be different from what you are used to eat- ing. That is just a cultural difference ... those weird things, we grew up eating. So please open your mind, eyes and mouth, and enjoy the cultural experience during your visit,” reads their website. There’s a handful of house cocktails and spirits to get you started. Everything has a Japanese twist or is made with an imported spirit. Example: the Yuzu Collins, made with Suntory Roku Gin and Yuzu. Eyeing the daily special is the next step. It’s always in the same format: raw, robata and more, and with seasonal ingredients. Tei Tei’s most enduring quality is that the dining room is filled with regulars. To our right was a family of three who considers Tei Tei a neighborhood restaurant despite driving 30 minutes from Sunnyvale. On our left was a couple who brought chef Saka- moto a gift for the holidays. Frequent diners go all-in with the menu as each chef calmly but precisely mans their station. Even as a first-timer diner, I was brought into the circle when the family next to me pointed and asked, “Is that the scallop sushi?” “Yes, it is.” I smiled. Ever since I had the scallop nigiri at the now Michelin-starred omakase restaurant Tatsu, I’ve been fiend- ing for my next fix. The scallops at Tei Tei are flown in from Hokkaido and served on a fat mound of sushi rice. You might doubt it, but one bite is possible. These scallops are much creamier and more tender than their regular Atlantic counterparts, and when served raw, you get the full spectrum of their rich flavor and ex- plosive sweetness. As for the main menu, it changes slightly with the season, but some items, like the miso-marinated sea bass, have been staples since the place opened in 1998. The menu is designed to encourage diners to try different dishes rather than a standard appetizer, entree and dessert. It’s great for solo diners, but groups do have more fun here. Or- dering something off the robata grill is a must. The snow crab and mushroom soup was shockingly hearty. It’s a miso-based soup with rice, crab, egg and mushrooms, and it’s served at a rapid boil. It’s a head-turner for sure and very cozy for the season. We were shocked when they set the Shu- mai dumplings down in front of us because they took the average amount of pork and beef usually stuffed into a dumpling and doubled it. The thin wrap was hanging on for dear life, but the ratio was still perfect. They’re served with a tatami sauce (like ponzu, but saltier) and a spicy Japanese mustard that has a strong wasabi kick. The artichoke was a clear labor of love off the robata grill, and our lychee martini was subtly sweet and refreshing. On the dessert menu, we spotted some- thing we’d never seen before: chocolate bavor- oie. It’s a French dessert that’s also referred to as Bavarian cream. It’s like an identical twin to chocolate mousse. Same-same but different. We weren’t surprised to find it on a Japa- nese restaurant’s menu because it fits right into the “not too sweet category” Japan is known for. The chocolate flavor is rich but subtle and not too heavy. Which means you’ll definitely have room for dessert even if you’ve indulged. Tei Tei Robata Bar, 2906 N. Henderson Ave. Sunday and Tuesday – Thursday, 5:30– 10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 5:30–11 p.m.; Mon- day, closed. ▼ CHEAP EATS DINING ON A DIME WHERE TO FEAST IN DALLAS FOR $10 OR LESS. BY ANGIE QUEBEDEAUX B etween inflation and the holidays, we’re all looking for ways to cut back on expenses, but not our waist line. Here’s a roundup of great food at a decent price. We’ve also got a list for great happy hour deals, a category unto itself. Ba Lee 1927 E. Belt Line Road We recently visited this Vietnamese sand- wich shop in Carrollton and suggested it could have the best banh mi in Dallas — for just $5. Get a crunchy baguette stuffed with pate ham, chicken, crushed meatballs, grilled pork, pork roll or shredded pork with skin. Each sandwich is loaded with pickled daikon, carrot, cilantro and jalape- nos. They also have pressed sugar cane juice ($4.50 for a small). Blackjack Pizza 2536 MLK Jr. Blvd. and 2120 N. St. Augustine Road Blackjack Pizza makes one of our favorite cheeseburgers in the city. The patties are thick, as are the slices of tomatoes and on- ions. A cheeseburger is just $6.75; a dou- ble-meat cheeseburger is $9.50. Blackjack has many other options under $10 (links and a chicken strip basket) and some other options a wee bit above 10 bucks (spa- ghetti). Just one thing to remember: Blackjack cash only. Burger House Park Cities, Addison and East Dallas Burger House, a Dallas institution, has served award-winning burgers, crispy sea- soned fries and handmade milkshakes and malts since 1951. Prices start at $5.45, and the burgers embody the epitome of classic flavors, offering a delicious nod to tradition. Cheesesteak House Various Locations Aaren Prody The Hokkaido scallops at Tei Tei are creamier than Atlantic scallops. Aaren Prody There are some fantastic options for less than $10, like this meal from Keller’s. Indulge your cravings at Cheesesteak House, where the regular-sized chees- esteaks are a steal at $7.99 and the large is just $9.99. You can also dive into a world of flavors with one of the specialty sand- wiches, priced at $8.59 for a regular and $10.89 for a large. The diverse array is sure to satisfy any appetite. >> p12
