17 January 11 - 17, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Stillwell’s Sultry Steaks Hotel Swexan just splashed in the deep end of Dallas’ busy steak scene. BY HANK VAUGHN D uring the summer of ’23, the Harwood District (HWD) wel- comed a new player, Harwood Hospitality Group’s Hôtel Swexan, a boutique hotel whose name includes both a circumflex to denote class and a portmanteau that play- fully references the founder’s Swiss and Texan background. “Swiss hospitality meets Texan charm.” One of the dining options at the Swexan is Stillwell’s, a steakhouse on the seventh floor offering views of the city and claiming inspiration from and celebration of the ranchers who built Dallas from the dusty, unforgiving country that was the North Central Plains. The dining area is a mix of mid-century and modern steakhouse aesthetics: white linen-covered tables with views of the city from the floor-to-ceiling windows adorned with lush drapes, along with some more al- cove tables whose entryways hold that same drapery and provide a bit more intimacy. The wine list is extensive, but we went with a couple of cocktails. Someone here is a fan of Arrested Development: a drink called There’s Always Money in the Banana Stand immediately caught our eye. Michter’s bourbon, crème de banana, St. Elizabeth all- spice dram and chocolate bitters served in a Collins glass and garnished with some can- died banana chips. What’s not to love? Bells in Jalisco, our other selection, was prepared with bell pepper-infused tequila, lime juice, Demerara syrup, mole and celery bitters and egg white, attractively served in a coupe glass. They had us at bell pepper-in- fused tequila and mole bitters. While we waited for the drinks to arrive the server brought us a loaf of wonderful on- ion bread along with softened butter. The bread was full of rich flavor and was baked in pull-apart sections, which we pulled apart. We would love to have eaten more, but we had a big meal ahead of us. For starters, we went with some deviled eggs ($16) and the tempura lobster tail ($28). The eggs were prepared with candied ba- con, chives and black garlic hot sauce, which gave it a spicy kick that we weren’t expect- ing but which we welcomed. The eggs were served in an odd amount of five, however, which led to that awkward moment when we’d each had two but only one remained. We considered a round of rock-paper-scis- sors to determine who got the last one. The lobster tempura was crispy and golden brown, dressed with some bang bang sauce, sesame seeds and green scallions and arrived as three pieces on skewers, perhaps a bit undercooked. Another odd number of servings, but a quick game of odds and evens settled that problem. Our salad selections were a Caesar and field greens. The Caesar was made with Baby Gem, crispy Parmesan and croutons, and the field greens consisted of cucumber, tomato, granola and goat cheese dressed lightly in a balsamic vinaigrette. Both were fresh and light. Side selections were a potato purée and some haricot verts, both exceptionally pre- pared — the potato smooth and buttery with chives, the green beans lightly sautéed in brown butter with some chili and a dash of Banyuls vinegar. Stillwell’s presents cuts that are aged at least 28 days and offers HWD beef, an Akaushi beef that is locally raised exclu- sively for Harwood. In an interesting twist, all steaks come with a side of house-made steak sauce as well, which conjured up happy memories of my grandfather, who would insist on a bottle of A.1. steak sauce for his beef. We finally decided on a 12-ounce filet mi- gnon ($78) and a 16-ounce Delmonico rib- eye ($80) from the HWD column of the menu rather than from the classic cut sec- tion. These are a bit more expensive, of course, but our excuse was that we were paying homage to our rancher forebears. It should be noted that Japanese wagyu is available served per ounce at market price for those who think nothing of all the hard work our rancher forebears did to create a thriving metropolitan area. Order the wagyu instead, if you can live with yourself. These were some pretty exceptional steaks, the filet perfectly cooked with a nice caramelized crusty exterior and a tender in- terior with a flavor that surpassed what one usually finds in a filet. There was no sacrific- ing flavor for tenderness here, and it was possibly one of the best filets we’ve had in the last couple of decades. The rib-eye was perfectly marbled and full of the great beefy flavor that one gets with a high-quality cut of rib-eye, and it also had a nice buttery crust to it. The edges were cooked a bit more than the requested me- dium rare, but as we progressed further into the steak we were not disappointed. Both steaks were served with an entire head of roasted garlic as well as the prom- ised steak sauce, which indeed was remi- niscent of A.1. We sampled it but there was no way we were going to let it overpower the wonderful, deep flavor of our steaks, so we finished the meat off unadorned. I did make a silent nod to my grandfather, how- ever. Alas, there was no room for dessert, so the New York cheesecake, pecan tart or pea- nut butter bar will have to wait for another special occasion visit. As we waited for the valet to bring the car we silently tipped our imaginary hat to our rancher forebears in thanks for a superb meal. ▼ DRY JANUARY SIP WITHOUT SACRIFICE 16 DALLAS DESTINATIONS FOR FLAVORFUL DRY JANUARY MOCKTAILS. BY ANGIE QUEBEDEAUX A s the calendar flips to a new year, a collective sigh of relief echoes. For many, January symbolizes a fresh start, a chance to reset and recalibrate after the indulgent holiday season. For those em- bracing the trend of “Dry January,” abstain- ing from alcohol doesn’t mean compromising on taste or experience. Dal- las, a city known for its vibrant culinary scene, doesn’t disappoint when it comes to crafting exquisite nonalcoholic concoctions. Join us on a journey as we explore the city’s most enticing mocktail destinations, where sophistication meets sobriety for a delight- ful Dry January experience. Anise 5630 Village Glen Nestled within the upscale Drey Hotel, An- ise is a hidden gem in The Village. The allure of Anise is within its charming patio and an exquisitely designed bar imbued with pan- Mediterranean influences. Dive into Anise’s Zero Proof Menu, and try the Underserved ($8), made with sweet plum, ginger and zesty lemon, all harmonized by Fever-Tree Mediterranean tonic. It’s not merely a bev- erage; it’s an experience that elevates the art of nonalcoholic indulgence. AT Bistro 8305 Westchester Drive AT Bistro serves new American cuisine with worldly influences. Named one of the best new restaurants in 2023 by Texas Monthly, it has both a fabulous menu and a great mixol- ogy team serving some mighty fine cocktails and mocktails. The Mint Berry Bliss is in- credibly refreshing, with fresh mint, straw- berries, lime and lemon-lime soda. Bar Louie Various Locations One of Dallas’ best happy hour spots, Bar Louie, is celebrating Dry January and releas- ing its inner free spirit with two new lim- ited-time zero-proof mocktails. The Pomegranate Paloma uses Ritual Zero Proof tequila alternative mingled with zesty pomegranate juice, lime and a sparkling grapefruit twist, topped with a salty rim fin- ish. The Pineapple Upside Down Margarita is a tropical fiesta also made with Ritual Zero Proof tequila blended with tangy pine- apple juice, a dash of Grenadine and vanilla and a citrusy splash of both lime and Sprite. These mocktails will be available at all of Bar Louie’s locations for $9.50 throughout Janu- ary. Prices and availability may vary depend- ing on location. Beyond the Bar 101 S. Sherman St., Richardson Earning the title of “Best Mocktail” by the Dallas Observer 2023 Reader’s | CITY OF ATE | ▼ Dish Hank Vaughn The 12-ounce filet mignon at Stillwell’s. Hank Vaughn The dining room at Stilwell’s in holiday mode. >> p18
