15 January 9 - 15, 2025 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents I n the twilight hours of 2024, we asked Dallas chefs and restaura- teurs a few questions about their fa- vorite bites of the past year, what meals they’re looking forward to in 2025 and, lastly, their New Year’s wishes for the Dallas dining scene. Well, a trend emerged — a big one. Each had interesting bites to share, but answers to the third question were almost identical: Hey, Dallas, eat local! The problem, if you want to call it that (we do), started as early as 2017 when big- name restaurants and bars started rolling into Big D, all strategically choosing our city for expansion. Bottled Blonde from Scotts- dale, Arizona, revived a forgotten part of downtown, one bottle-service reservation at a time. Flashy big-name imports like Car- bone from New York, Crown Block from Las Vegas and Chicago-based Danny Grant’s Monarch all moved into high-end real es- tate. Other imports included Komodo, La Neta and Federales (now closed). Even international businesses have dipped their toes in the murky Trinity wa- ters: Eataly from Italy (via New York City) has solidified itself as a boutique grocer with several restaurants at NorthPark Mall. The world-famous La Tarte Tropézienne opened its first bakery outside of France in downtown Dallas in 2020 (but has since closed). Dallas native and New York Times writer Priya Krishna even wrote an article about it: “For Diners With Deep Pockets, Dallas Is the New Dubai.” But not all culinary imports are equal. Case in point: Dallas received one Michelin star in the inaugural guide this past Novem- ber, courtesy of chef Tatsuya Sekiguchi, who arrived in Dallas from Japan by way of New York. His small Deep Ellum omakase, Tatsu, which he and his wife own, showcases the art of omakase, and we couldn’t be more grateful. But chef Sekiguchi has fully embraced being Texan, even donning a 10-gallon cowboy hat at the Michelin ceremony. He wore that hat as though he’d worn it all his life. When Georgie dropped Curtis Stone from the marquee, French Laundry-honed chef RJ Yoakum took over and has made Dallas his new home. New Zealand-born Tony Archibald of Quarter Acre has worked around the world, but his restaurant on Lower Greenville is his home. Last fall, he hosted a benefit for the Baylor Scott & White Dallas Foundation, Tiniest Texans, with other local chefs. New restaurants anchored far away con- tinue to roll in. The Greek restaurant Avra (with outposts in New York, Miami and Bev- erly Hills) will open this spring. CATCH, mimicking spots in New York, Miami and LA, opened in the historic Maple Terrace. The Hampton Social, with more than a dozen locations, is taking over the old Iron Cactus spot in downtown Dallas. Woosh. So many imports. So little space left in our elastic bands. But here’s the deal: dining dollars are finite, and every dollar counts. Remember that when you’re picking your next haunt for a plate of linguine. Dal- las chefs and restaurateurs certainly hope you do. Here’s a roundup of what food some great Dallas chefs are excited about, near and far, along with their hopes for the local dining scene. Anastacia Quinones-Pittman CHEF, JOSÉ What was the best thing you ate last year? The best thing I ate last year was all the fresh local produce from spring and summer. We had a really good year. Local blackberries while cooking in Bluffton, South Carolina; strawberries from Demases farms; cherries from Big B’s farms in Hotchkiss, Colorado; and Texas peaches from Comeback Creek Farms. If we’re talking about Dallas restau- rants specifically, it would be a tie between chef Sonia’s (Mancilla) mussels at Via Triozzi and any iteration of chef Misti’s (Norris) pigtails at Petra. Which restaurant are you most excited to try this year? I’m most looking forward to dining in Mon- terrey, Mexico. It’s been several years since I’ve been, and I’m looking forward to reac- quainting myself with the dining scene. What are your hopes for the Dallas dining scene in 2025? I’d love to see Dallas continue to grow as a city that nurtures and celebrates its local tal- ent. There’s so much creativity and passion here, and I hope more independent chefs and restaurateurs have the opportunity to bring their visions to life. My dream is for Dallas to be known not only for its vibrant dining scene but for its ability to foster culi- nary innovation and diversity that draws people from all over — not just for the aes- thetics but for the quality of the food and ex- periences we create. John Tesar CHEF, KNIFE AND KNIFE ITALIAN What was the best thing you ate last year? The best thing I ate last year was every- thing I experienced in Japan. Visiting six cities in eight days as the new Kobe am- bassador, I had the chance to savor an in- credible variety of Japanese cuisine. From perfectly marbled Kobe beef to the fresh- est sushi and ramen — every bite was un- forgettable. What are you most looking forward to eating this year? Knife Steak & Seafood — it’s been a long time coming. This concept brings together the best of Dallas’ Knife Steakhouse and Spoon Bar & Kitchen (Dallas, 2012–2014), inspired by Knife & Spoon in Orlando, where we earned a Michelin star. What are your hopes for the Dallas dining scene in 2025? I hope more people gain an appreciation for just how challenging the restaurant business is and choose to support the local chefs who have been consistently contributing to the Dallas market long before the big national brands arrived. Peja Krstic CHEF, MOT HAI BA AND PILLAR What was the best thing you ate last year? Chef Toby Archibald of Quarter Acre was one of the chefs for the Bryan’s House char- ity dinner. [Krstic is on the board and hosts dinners annually.] So Toby made this dish with, I think, coconut and crab and some- thing else, and probably singlehandedly one of the best dishes I’ve had. And also the Creste de Gallo pasta at Even Coast. It’s so ... it’s ridiculous. What are you most looking forward to eating this year? Well, mostly, I’m excited to see what chef RJ [Yoakum] brings to Georgie next year. I’m really excited about him. I’ve been sup- porting him. He’s a young chef. Very good kind of attitude and a lot of passion. It’s been a while since I’ve seen somebody in the city like him, and I’m really cheering for him. Now that they’re on the map for Michelin, it’s time to rise and shine and see what he can do. What are your hopes for the Dallas dining scene in 2025? Our scene is kind of ... bumpy in a sense be- cause there are a lot of these big restaurants and big groups coming in from other cities, and I don’t think we’re seeing any value in it at all, as opposed to “there’s big places open- ing” and that’s pretty much it. It’s very vague. It’s been very vague for the past few years. And then there are a few restaurants that closed, such as Homewood and some other spots — Meridian closed. I feel that we have less chef-driven restaurants now in Dallas than before, so I’m looking forward to seeing more chef-driven restaurants. With an influx of out-of-towners, Dallas restaurants hope diners stay loyal to the home team. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS | CITY OF ATE | t Dish Photography by Alison McLean; Nathan Hunsinger; photo-illustration by Sarah Schumacher >> p16 The Dish on Dallas Dining
