12 January 4 - 10, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Kimchi Carbonara Pasta MoonGlow, 2540 King Arthur Blvd., Lewisville MoonGlow is a Japanese-Italian spot with limited seating and an ever-changing menu, so you never know what you’ll get before making a reservation. The Kimchi Carbonara pasta was the standout the evening we vis- ited. The spaghetti, served in an attractive earthen bowl, comes with a buttery rich sauce with guanciale, kimchi, pepper and parsley. The kimchi provided an understated flavor and slight kick to the dish, and the pork cheek is cured in-house. It is such a rich and complex dish that the large serving size was almost too big. Almost. – Hank Vaughn Ginger Lemon Grilled Octopus Mot Hai Ba, 6047 Lewis St. Even though one could produce a lengthy PowerPoint presentation on stellar dishes from Mot Hai Ba, narrowing it down to one is actually a no-brainer. The ginger lemon grilled octopus is a clean and refreshing appetizer with fingerling potatoes, cucumber, tomato nuoc cham and toum (two tangy and garlicky sauces). The balanced dance between textures and flavors is what puts this dish over the top, all anchored by the delicate and sweet octopus. –Aaren Prody Okonomiyaki Okaeri Cafe, 312 N. Greenville Ave., Richardson Known for its warm interiors and traditional Japanese floor-seating, Okaeri Cafe is a haven for customary Japanese flavors in Richardson. The off-the-beaten-path menu specializes in dozens of underground East Asian dishes, but the most notable is the traditional Japanese okonomiyaki, a deep- fried cabbage pancake with a crunchy outer layer that gives way to heavenly pockets of garlic-scented cabbage. Topped with colorful spicy mayo, green onion and toasted sesame seeds, it’s a delightful dish for both the palate and the camera. -Anisha Holla Malaysian Coffee Bun PappaRoti, 729 Hebron Parkway, Lewisville, and 9188 Prestmont Place, Frisco Asian desserts are on trend in North Texas and of all the sugar-filled delicacies we tried this year, PappaRoti serves a standout. The new Frisco joint’s Malaysian coffee buns come drizzled in different sauces, nuts and creamy toppings, but the highlight of every visit has been the plain Signature Bun, buttered and covered in crunchy caramel coffee. The heavy scent of cardamom hangs in the air, signaling fresh buns coming out of the oven and keeping us coming back. –Anisha Holla Japanese Fish & Chips Pearl Sushi, 4640 McKinney Ave. Ordering fish and chips from a sushi restaurant seems heinous and downright unlawful, but when your neighbor at the sushi bar at Pearl insists, one must relent. Fresh and tender white fish is dipped in Japanese curry tempura batter and served sizzling fresh out of the fryer. It comes with two different sauces, a house-made tartar sauce and ponzu mignonette so good you’ll ask for seconds to extend the flavors of the dish. A side of burdock root will have you contorting your chopsticks to add its salty savoriness to every bite. Fish and chips. Japanese cuisine. Proof that opposites do attract. –Aaren Prody Jumbo Lump Blue Crab Fried Spaghetti Stock & Barrel, 316 W. Davis St. This was one of our stops during Restaurant Week, and without a doubt, it provided the best bite of the entire period and was one of the highlights of the entire year as well. The fried spaghetti is a well-balanced dish that has both crispy and al dente pasta components, with a satisfying amount of lump blue crab all held together by spicy tomato sugo and topped with a chile hollandaise sauce that doesn’t overpower the dish. Our only complaint is that Restaurant Week portions are often a bit smaller, so a return trip for a larger serving is definitely in order. –Hank Vaughn Big Plate Chicken Turan Uyghur Kitchen, 2001 Coit Road, Plano Turan Uyghur Kitchen serves Uyghur cuisine from the northwest region of China. The star of the menu is a big plate of chicken, which can be ordered as a small or large portion, though the small easily feeds four people. Braised bone-in chicken stew served on a bed of flat noodles and piled high with potatoes, spring onions, garlic, red and green bell peppers with a touch of star anise and cinnamon complete this unique offering. It’s full of rich and unique savory flavors deep in character; we had plenty of leftovers, and the wonderful sauce on rice the next day was heavenly as well. –Hank Vaughn Butternut Squash Ravioli Via Triozzi, 1806 Greenville Ave. If you happen to saunter down the sidewalk on Greenville Avenue one morning, you might catch a glimpse of chef Leigh Hutchinson making pasta at Via Triozzi. The view comes courtesy of the large pic- ture window she installed in her restaurant’s pasta-making room. If there’s a nip of au- tumn in the air, and you see ravioli being made, try to get a reservation that night and hope that the butternut squash ravioli is on the menu. The sweet and nutty squash is the perfect filling for the delicate ravioli, and the accompanying brown butter sauce is simple elegance. –Chris Wolfgang Alison McLean Butternut Squash Ravioli at Via Triozzi Bite Me from p11 Hank Vaughn The star of Turan Uyghur Kitchen is the big plate of chicken with a savory sauce and noodles.
