90 September 19 - 25, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER CONTENTS | READERS’ PICKS | SHOPPING & SERVICES | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT | FOOD & DRINK | SPORTS & RECREATION Best New Restaurant Radici It’s safe to say most of Dallas was keen to try chef Tiffany Derry’s latest restaurant, Radici, and when the doors finally opened in May, we weren’t disappointed. Located next to Derry’s much-lauded Roots Southern Table, Radici brings Derry’s takes on classic Italian with a wood- charred twist. Between co-owner Tom Foley’s Italian heritage and Derry’s long history of cooking Italian cuisine, Radici has hit its mark. Our first look led us to culinary delights such as coniglio alla gricia (casarecce pasta with braised rabbit and pork) and braciole di masala pork chop that showcased how open flame cooking and Italian can blend together with panache. 12990 Bee St., Farmers Branch 214-550-7900, radiciwoodfiredgrill.com Best Chef R.J. Yoakum, Georgie Originally a partnership with celebrity chef Curtis Stone, Georgie leaned on the high-end steakhouse theme when it opened in 2019. But owner Stephan Courseau quietly ended his partnership with Stone last year and handed the reins to R.J. Yoakum, most recently of Thomas Keller’s French Laundry. At Georgie, Yoakum has revamped the menu, leaning on his French techniques as well as a willingness to break rules. New takes on classic dishes are paired with inventive flavor combinations, plated with a style that’s worthy of the buzz among Dallas’ dining media. Yoakum still claims to be learning and striving to make Georgie better, but we’re wowed by the technique and creativity he’s brought to the table. 4514 Travis St., No. 132 469-466-8263, georgiedallas.com Best Italian Via Triozzi Via Triozzi opened last year on Greenville Avenue, but for chef and owner Leigh Hutchinson, the restaurant was 17 years in the making. It’s the Italian restaurant much of Dallas craves, with authentic old-world flavors presented in a casually classy and inviting space. Start with some wine from Via Triozzi’s impressive list of accessible reds and whites, then sit back and let Hutchinson make you feel right at home with handcrafted pasta, seasonal vegetables and, if you’re up for it, a splurge-worthy bistecca alla Fiorentina porterhouse for two that will leave you speechless with delight. 1806 Greenville Ave. 469-897-5679, viatriozzi.com Best Barbecue Cattleack Barbeque In the interest of full disclosure, we were slightly concerned when we learned last year that Todd David had sold Cattleack Barbeque. David’s barbecue prowess started as a post-retirement hobby that blossomed into a full-time business, and Cattleack became synonymous with the best barbecue in the state and an easy recommendation to anyone who asked us. We needn’t have worried; Cattleack’s new owner, Andrew Castelan, had worked for David for the previous six years, allowing his barbecue passion to grow. Under Castelan’s guidance, Cattleack is still the same gem, just slightly more accessible. It has added Wednesday lunch hours, and is open the first Saturday of the month as well. The same stellar barbecue, served on more days? That’s a change we can get on board with. 13628 Gamma Road, Farmers Branch 972-805-0999, cattleackbbq.com Best Steakhouse Al Biernat’s Al Biernat’s is an old-school Dallas institution and steakhouse destination. Since the Oak Lawn location opened in 1998 (there’s a second location in North Dallas), Al Biernat’s has developed a reputation for high-end steaks and chops, a stellar wine selection and spot-on service. While prime and wagyu steaks take center stage, don’t sleep on the seafood options if something from the water is more your speed. And don’t take our word for it. When the Texas Rangers won their first World Series last fall, the team headed here for a post-parade dinner celebration. If it’s good enough for the world champs, it’s good enough for us. 4217 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-219-2201, albiernats.com Best Mediterranean The Mayor’s House by Selda A historic house on North Zang Boulevard that has been in and out of development deals for years has finally been repurposed into a Mediterranean restaurant from the same folks who brought us Selda Mediterranean Grill in North Dallas. Focusing primarily on Turkish-inspired fare, The Mayor’s House by Selda offers several dining areas, including an outside wraparound porch as well as a second-floor balcony, that are eclectically decorated and staged, providing a relaxed and warm atmosphere in which to dine. The kababs and hummus are all on point, and the Turkish tea expertly served, but the lavas puffy bread, hot and still steaming fresh from the oven, is the chef’s kiss here. 635 N. Zang Blvd. 214-940-9137, themayorshousebyselda.com Best Hidden Gem John’s Backyard Grill Hidden away and hard to find? Check. Unpretentiously adorned and decorated? Check. Really good food that tastes homemade and is priced relatively low? Check. John’s Backyard Grill ticks all the boxes. Located in the back of a Chevron gas station in Far North Dallas, John’s offers mainly hamburgers and tacos, along with breakfast burritos, tortas and a quesadilla platter, but the burger is the star here. Juicy and thick, it captures exactly the flavor of that old Weber kettle grill from late July summer backyard patio cookouts, and at $8 (which includes above-average fries), it’s a bargain. 17604 Davenport Road 972-733-1439 Best Taqueria Tortilleria el Maizal This place lives in the shadow of what used to be Valley View Mall, in a small strip center that’s a challenge to navigate because of the gas station that shares the parking lot. It’s worth the effort. The corn is the star here, including tortillas made from heirloom corn varieties that come in a large range of colorful hues. It’s a popular place for workers in the Food & Drink Alison McLean Radici // BEST NEW RESTAURANT Alison McLean Via Triozzi // BEST ITALIAN
